On the southern edge of the coal basin, where Auberchicourt, Écaillon and Aniche run into one another, a long spoil heap rises above the brick roofs and the fields. Terril 125a is one of the many numbered heaps that the Nord-Pas de Calais inventory catalogues, and it belongs to the old concession of the Compagnie des mines d'Aniche, one of the historic coal companies of the region. Aniche itself is a reminder that the north was not only about coal: the town had a long glassmaking tradition, and the combination of fuel, sand and labour made the area an industrial hub well before the twentieth century.
Many terrils around here have been greened and opened to walkers. Birch and willow have taken root on the slopes, and paths lead up to viewpoints from which you can see across to Douai and the plain stretching toward Cambrai. In summer the black shale soaks up heat and makes a little island of warmth; on a cold day the wind up top is sharp. Some heaps were partly quarried away after the pits closed, their material reused in road building, so the profiles you see today are not always the original ones.
For riders, this is the gentler, greener side of the basin. Head south and the country quickly turns into the open farmland of the Ostrevent and the Cambrésis, with long straight roads, slight undulations and big skies. Toward the east, the Scarpe and Escaut valleys bring water and trees. Expect plenty of roundabouts and village speed limits, occasional cobbled streets and farm traffic in summer, and keep an eye out for mud near field entrances after harvest. The wind can push hard across these open plains, especially on the higher, straighter stretches.
Aniche, with around ten thousand people, has fuel, supermarkets, bakeries and cafés, and Douai is close if you want more choice for lunch. If you are curious about the industrial past, the Centre Historique Minier at Lewarde lies a short ride to the west and gives the most complete picture of mining life in the region. Otherwise, park up near the foot of the terril, walk the first section of the path for a view, and enjoy a quiet corner of northern France that rarely sees a visitor on a motorcycle.