The Zeravshan valley in northwestern Tajikistan is one of the old arteries of Central Asia, a fertile ribbon of green squeezed between the Turkestan and Zeravshan ranges, and in the hills above it lie the ruins of fortresses that once guarded the eastern approaches to Sogdiana. Tali Khamtuda is one of these, and nearby stands the castle on Mount Mugh, where one of the most dramatic stories of the region took place. In 722 Devashtich, the ruler of Panjakent, fled here with his people from the advancing Arab armies, and after a siege he surrendered and was executed. In 1933 a shepherd found a basket of documents in the ruins, written on leather, paper and wood in the Sogdian language, which turned out to be Devashtich's archive and one of the most important sources for understanding Sogdian society.
Panjakent, about twenty-five kilometres to the west, is the modern town that grew beside the ruins of ancient Panjakent, a Sogdian city of merchants, temples and wall paintings, sometimes called the Pompeii of Central Asia. Its frescoes are now in museums, some in Dushanbe and some in the Hermitage in St Petersburg, but the excavated city on its plateau above the river is evocative. Samarkand, across the border in Uzbekistan, is only about sixty kilometres to the west.
The road up the Zeravshan from Panjakent towards Ayni follows the river through a deepening valley, with villages, apricot orchards and walnut trees on the terraces and big mountains rising on both sides. The surface is mostly paved but rough in places, with rockfall, washouts and livestock to watch for. From Ayni, the road to Dushanbe climbs to the Anzob tunnel, notorious among riders for its darkness, water, potholes and fumes. Side valleys lead to the Fann Mountains and the Haft Kul, the Seven Lakes, a string of turquoise lakes along a dramatic valley.
Panjakent has fuel stations, a bazaar and simple restaurants; in the mountains, fuel is scarce and quality varies. Carry spare fuel and water, and a good map. Food is simple: plov, non bread, lagman noodles and green tea, served with generous hospitality. Summer brings heat in the valley and cool nights in the mountains; winter closes many high roads.