Noto Peninsula Coastal Loop

A long Sea of Japan peninsula route with villages and dramatic shoreline.

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Why this ride

A long Sea of Japan peninsula route with villages and dramatic shoreline. The road: Routes 249 and 159. Distance and riding time are estimates from the checkpoints until the road is measured on this page.

Roadbook

1. Kanazawa start

   Kanazawa is one of the few Japanese cities of its size to have come through the Second World War untouched, and the old quarters show it. It sits on the Sea of Japan coast, with the Sai and Asano rivers running through it, and was for nearly three hundred years the seat of the Maeda family, the richest feudal lords in Japan after the shogun, who ruled the Kaga domain and spent their wealth on arts and crafts. That legacy survives in gold leaf, silk dyeing, lacquer and ceramics, and in a taste for refined things.

   The best known sight is Kenrokuen, a garden begun in the seventeenth century and counted among the three great gardens of Japan. Its ponds, bridges, pines supported by ropes in winter and a famous two-legged stone lantern make it lovely in every season, especially under snow. Kanazawa Castle stands next door. In the Higashi Chaya district, wooden teahouses with lattice fronts still host geisha performances, and shops sell gold leaf in almost everything, including ice cream. The fish market at Omicho is the place to try the local crab and sushi.

   North of the city lies the Noto Peninsula, which juts into the Sea of Japan, with rocky coasts, rice terraces, fishing villages and quiet roads. The Noto Satoyama Kaido and the coast roads offer long, easy riding with sea views. In January 2024, a powerful earthquake badly damaged parts of the peninsula, with road collapses and damage to towns, so riders should check the current state of the roads and open sections before setting out, since repairs have been ongoing. At Chirihama, a long beach of firm sand is open to vehicles, a rarity in Japan.

   Kanazawa has fuel and food at every turn, with Nonoichi and Matto adding more. Winters are grey and snowy, and the best seasons are spring and autumn. Expect tolls on the expressways.

2. Wajima stop

   Wajima sits on the northern coast of the Noto Peninsula, in Ishikawa prefecture, a long finger of land pushing out into the Sea of Japan, and for a long time it was best known for two things: lacquerware and its morning market. Wajima-nuri lacquer, made with layers of lacquer over a base mixed with local diatomaceous earth, is among the finest in Japan, with a deep gloss that lasts for generations. The market, held every morning along a street near the harbour, sold fish, vegetables and crafts, with elderly women calling out to passers-by.

   On New Year's Day 2024, a powerful earthquake struck the Noto Peninsula, causing major damage in Wajima, including a large fire that destroyed much of the market district, and the effects were felt throughout the region. Recovery has been slow, and rebuilding is continuing. Roads that were damaged have been reopened in stages, but you should check the current state of the road and local conditions before travelling, and bear in mind that some businesses are still closed. Visitors should be respectful, and spending money in local shops and restaurants is a useful way to help.

   Close by, the Senmaida at Shiroyone, a hillside of about a thousand tiny terraced rice paddies falling toward the sea, is one of the most photographed sights on the peninsula, a patchwork of green in summer and gold in autumn. The coastal road itself, along the rocky shore, was among the best in Japan for riding, with long views and smooth curves, and the sunset over the sea is often superb.

   Wajima is a long way from the nearest big city, Nanao, some thirty-eight kilometres to the south, so fuel is something to plan for. Wajima has its own petrol stations, but it is wise to arrive with a full tank, and to check opening hours. Seafood in the area, particularly crab in winter, is renowned.

   Winters are cold and snowy, with strong winds off the sea, and summers are warm and humid. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with comfortable temperatures and clear air. It is a place that rewards slow travel and a patient, respectful approach.

3. Suzu stop

   Suzu sits at the very tip of the Noto Peninsula, the thumb of land that pokes into the Sea of Japan from Ishikawa Prefecture, and it is the sort of place where roads end and the sea begins. It is a long way from anywhere: Kanazawa lies about two and a half hours back down the peninsula, and the landscape between is one of terraced rice paddies, small fishing villages, black-tiled farmhouses and cedar windbreaks. The people of Noto have a reputation for quiet resilience, and the cooking is seafood-led, with squid, crab and yellowtail landing in the winter.

   The region has a deep tradition of salt-making. In some villages along the coast the old method of drying seawater on sand and boiling it in iron pans has been kept alive, and the salt from here is prized by cooks. The peninsula is also known for lacquerware from Wajima, for the Kiriko lantern festivals, and for a coastline of rock arches and small islands, including the Mitsukejima, nicknamed the Battleship Island, a rocky outcrop beside the shore at Suzu.

   It is important to be honest about the present. The Noto Peninsula was struck by a powerful earthquake on New Year's Day in 2024 and Suzu was among the worst-hit places, with roads damaged, landslides, and a long period of rebuilding. Some sections of the coast road have been closed or repaired, and conditions change, so before you ride here, check current road information, and expect reconstruction work and reduced services. Respect that people are still living with the consequences, and spend a little money locally when you can.

   When the roads are open the riding is excellent: the coast road along the outer shore is quiet and curving, with long views of the sea and the sun setting over the water in the evening. Fuel is available in Suzu normally, but confirm before relying on it, and fill up at the larger towns whenever you can. Late spring and early autumn have the best weather.

4. Nanao stop

   Nanao sits on the sheltered inner coast of the Noto Peninsula, on a bay of the same name, where the Sea of Japan is calmer than on the exposed western shore. It was once the capital of the old Noto province, and a castle of the Hatakeyama family stood on the hills above the town, until it fell to the warlord Uesugi Kenshin in 1577. The castle is now a ruin of stone walls and a pleasant park. The town is a working port, with a fish market and an old street of merchants' houses.

   Nanao has a famous festival. The Seihaku-sai in May features enormous wooden floats called Dekayama, up to twelve meters tall, painted in bright colors and pulled through the streets by crowds, a spectacle that is among the festivals inscribed by UNESCO in 2016. Nearby Wakura Onsen is one of Japan's famous hot-spring resorts, with seaside baths, and the bay is known for oysters and sweet shrimp. Noto's cuisine, with its fresh seafood and sake, is well regarded across the country.

   The peninsula suffered badly in the earthquake on New Year's Day 2024, which caused deep damage in the north and west, and some roads and communities were hit hard. Recovery has been under way for some time, but conditions along parts of the coast may still be uneven, so check road status before you ride. Where the roads are open, the coastal route around the peninsula is a joy: it follows the shoreline through fishing villages, past rice terraces, rocky headlands and long beaches, with sea views and gentle curves. Surfaces are generally good.

   Nanao has fuel, supermarkets, convenience stores and restaurants, and it is the largest town on the peninsula's east side, so it is a good place to stock up. The best months are May, with fresh green and the festival, and October, when the air is crisp and the sea glitters. Summer is hot and humid, and winter brings snow and strong winds off the Sea of Japan, which can close the roads. The light on the water in the evening, with fishing boats going out, is memorable.

5. Back to Kanazawa finish

Where this sits

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