Kanazawa is one of the few Japanese cities of its size to have come through the Second World War untouched, and the old quarters show it. It sits on the Sea of Japan coast, with the Sai and Asano rivers running through it, and was for nearly three hundred years the seat of the Maeda family, the richest feudal lords in Japan after the shogun, who ruled the Kaga domain and spent their wealth on arts and crafts. That legacy survives in gold leaf, silk dyeing, lacquer and ceramics, and in a taste for refined things.
The best known sight is Kenrokuen, a garden begun in the seventeenth century and counted among the three great gardens of Japan. Its ponds, bridges, pines supported by ropes in winter and a famous two-legged stone lantern make it lovely in every season, especially under snow. Kanazawa Castle stands next door. In the Higashi Chaya district, wooden teahouses with lattice fronts still host geisha performances, and shops sell gold leaf in almost everything, including ice cream. The fish market at Omicho is the place to try the local crab and sushi.
North of the city lies the Noto Peninsula, which juts into the Sea of Japan, with rocky coasts, rice terraces, fishing villages and quiet roads. The Noto Satoyama Kaido and the coast roads offer long, easy riding with sea views. In January 2024, a powerful earthquake badly damaged parts of the peninsula, with road collapses and damage to towns, so riders should check the current state of the roads and open sections before setting out, since repairs have been ongoing. At Chirihama, a long beach of firm sand is open to vehicles, a rarity in Japan.
Kanazawa has fuel and food at every turn, with Nonoichi and Matto adding more. Winters are grey and snowy, and the best seasons are spring and autumn. Expect tolls on the expressways.