Nanao sits on the sheltered inner coast of the Noto Peninsula, on a bay of the same name, where the Sea of Japan is calmer than on the exposed western shore. It was once the capital of the old Noto province, and a castle of the Hatakeyama family stood on the hills above the town, until it fell to the warlord Uesugi Kenshin in 1577. The castle is now a ruin of stone walls and a pleasant park. The town is a working port, with a fish market and an old street of merchants' houses.
Nanao has a famous festival. The Seihaku-sai in May features enormous wooden floats called Dekayama, up to twelve meters tall, painted in bright colors and pulled through the streets by crowds, a spectacle that is among the festivals inscribed by UNESCO in 2016. Nearby Wakura Onsen is one of Japan's famous hot-spring resorts, with seaside baths, and the bay is known for oysters and sweet shrimp. Noto's cuisine, with its fresh seafood and sake, is well regarded across the country.
The peninsula suffered badly in the earthquake on New Year's Day 2024, which caused deep damage in the north and west, and some roads and communities were hit hard. Recovery has been under way for some time, but conditions along parts of the coast may still be uneven, so check road status before you ride. Where the roads are open, the coastal route around the peninsula is a joy: it follows the shoreline through fishing villages, past rice terraces, rocky headlands and long beaches, with sea views and gentle curves. Surfaces are generally good.
Nanao has fuel, supermarkets, convenience stores and restaurants, and it is the largest town on the peninsula's east side, so it is a good place to stock up. The best months are May, with fresh green and the festival, and October, when the air is crisp and the sea glitters. Summer is hot and humid, and winter brings snow and strong winds off the Sea of Japan, which can close the roads. The light on the water in the evening, with fishing boats going out, is memorable.