Wajima sits on the northern coast of the Noto Peninsula, in Ishikawa prefecture, a long finger of land pushing out into the Sea of Japan, and for a long time it was best known for two things: lacquerware and its morning market. Wajima-nuri lacquer, made with layers of lacquer over a base mixed with local diatomaceous earth, is among the finest in Japan, with a deep gloss that lasts for generations. The market, held every morning along a street near the harbour, sold fish, vegetables and crafts, with elderly women calling out to passers-by.
On New Year's Day 2024, a powerful earthquake struck the Noto Peninsula, causing major damage in Wajima, including a large fire that destroyed much of the market district, and the effects were felt throughout the region. Recovery has been slow, and rebuilding is continuing. Roads that were damaged have been reopened in stages, but you should check the current state of the road and local conditions before travelling, and bear in mind that some businesses are still closed. Visitors should be respectful, and spending money in local shops and restaurants is a useful way to help.
Close by, the Senmaida at Shiroyone, a hillside of about a thousand tiny terraced rice paddies falling toward the sea, is one of the most photographed sights on the peninsula, a patchwork of green in summer and gold in autumn. The coastal road itself, along the rocky shore, was among the best in Japan for riding, with long views and smooth curves, and the sunset over the sea is often superb.
Wajima is a long way from the nearest big city, Nanao, some thirty-eight kilometres to the south, so fuel is something to plan for. Wajima has its own petrol stations, but it is wise to arrive with a full tank, and to check opening hours. Seafood in the area, particularly crab in winter, is renowned.
Winters are cold and snowy, with strong winds off the sea, and summers are warm and humid. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with comfortable temperatures and clear air. It is a place that rewards slow travel and a patient, respectful approach.