Suzu sits at the very tip of the Noto Peninsula, the thumb of land that pokes into the Sea of Japan from Ishikawa Prefecture, and it is the sort of place where roads end and the sea begins. It is a long way from anywhere: Kanazawa lies about two and a half hours back down the peninsula, and the landscape between is one of terraced rice paddies, small fishing villages, black-tiled farmhouses and cedar windbreaks. The people of Noto have a reputation for quiet resilience, and the cooking is seafood-led, with squid, crab and yellowtail landing in the winter.
The region has a deep tradition of salt-making. In some villages along the coast the old method of drying seawater on sand and boiling it in iron pans has been kept alive, and the salt from here is prized by cooks. The peninsula is also known for lacquerware from Wajima, for the Kiriko lantern festivals, and for a coastline of rock arches and small islands, including the Mitsukejima, nicknamed the Battleship Island, a rocky outcrop beside the shore at Suzu.
It is important to be honest about the present. The Noto Peninsula was struck by a powerful earthquake on New Year's Day in 2024 and Suzu was among the worst-hit places, with roads damaged, landslides, and a long period of rebuilding. Some sections of the coast road have been closed or repaired, and conditions change, so before you ride here, check current road information, and expect reconstruction work and reduced services. Respect that people are still living with the consequences, and spend a little money locally when you can.
When the roads are open the riding is excellent: the coast road along the outer shore is quiet and curving, with long views of the sea and the sun setting over the water in the evening. Fuel is available in Suzu normally, but confirm before relying on it, and fill up at the larger towns whenever you can. Late spring and early autumn have the best weather.