Panjakent sits in the upper Zeravshan valley in north-western Tajikistan, close to the border with Uzbekistan and Samarkand, and the valley has been a corridor for traders, armies and ideas since long before the Silk Road had a name. Near the village of Mazori Sharif, in the hills south of the river, stands the mausoleum of Khoja Muhammad Bashoro, built in the eleventh century, famous for its portal decorated with intricate carved terracotta, a fine example of early Islamic architecture in Central Asia. It remains a place of pilgrimage, and visitors should dress modestly and respect those who come to pray.
The valley is rich in history. Sarazm, a few kilometres west of Panjakent, is one of the oldest settlements in Central Asia, dating back to the fourth millennium BC, and was listed by UNESCO in 2010. Ancient Panjakent, on a terrace above the modern town, was a Sogdian city of the fifth to eighth centuries, whose houses were decorated with remarkable wall paintings, some of which are now in museums in Tajikistan and Russia. The Sogdians were the great merchants of the Silk Road, and their language served as a common tongue along the trade routes.
The landscape is dramatic: the Zeravshan river flows through a broad valley between the high Zeravshan and Turkestan ranges, with orchards and fields along the river and bare mountains above. South of Panjakent, the Haft Kul, or Seven Lakes, a string of turquoise lakes in the Fann mountains, are reached by a rough road through a narrow valley, a wonderful but demanding ride.
The main road from Dushanbe to Panjakent crosses the Fann mountains through the Anzob tunnel, which has a fearsome reputation for poor ventilation, water and potholes, and then follows the Zeravshan valley west. The roads are generally paved, but conditions vary, with rockfalls and landslides possible, especially in spring. Summer is the best time to ride, though temperatures can be very high in the valley.
Panjakent, around twenty-four kilometres away, has fuel, a bazaar, shops and guesthouses. Fill up whenever possible, and carry water. In the bazaar, look for dried fruits, nuts and fresh bread baked in tandoor ovens, and try a bowl of shurbo, a hearty meat and vegetable soup, or a plate of mantu, steamed dumplings. Tajik hospitality is warm and generous, and you may find yourself invited for tea by people you meet on the road.