Paestum itself, with its three magnificent Doric temples built by Greek colonists, lies down on the coastal plain south of Salerno, and it is part of a single UNESCO listing that covers the whole Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park, together with the ancient city of Velia and the Certosa di Padula. This point is in the wild interior of that park, close to Monte Cervati, the highest mountain in Campania.
The Cilento interior is one of the least visited corners of southern Italy, and it is a fine place to ride. The mountains are covered in beech and chestnut forests, with high pastures, limestone cliffs and deep gorges, and the villages cling to hillsides with views over the valleys. The roads are narrow, winding and often empty, with endless bends, steep climbs and descents. The surfaces can be rough, with potholes and loose gravel, and landslides sometimes close roads after heavy rain. Allow plenty of time, because distances are deceptive.
To the north east lies the Vallo di Diano, a wide, flat valley with the great Certosa di Padula, one of the largest monasteries in Italy, with a vast cloister. Sala Consilina, about sixteen kilometres away, is the main town of the valley, with fuel, shops and services. To the south west, the mountains drop towards the coast at Palinuro and Marina di Camerota, with beaches, caves and clear water.
The Cilento is also famous as the place where the American scientist Ancel Keys studied the Mediterranean diet, living for many years in the coastal village of Pioppi. The local food is simple and delicious, based on olive oil, vegetables, legumes, cheese and fresh pasta, with the buffalo mozzarella of the plain around Paestum as a highlight. The villages of the interior are small, with limited services, so carry water and fill your tank in the valley towns before heading into the mountains.