Yangpyeong Mountain Roads
A 346 km loop
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Why this ride
Scenery first, traffic last, with checkpoints that make sense on a bike. A 346 km loop that starts and ends near Jinjeop, about 7 h 12 of riding. On the way it passes Scenic stretch near Hanam, in Hwaseong-si and near Seonwon. near Gwangju is the high point. Much of it runs through woodland.
Roadbook
- Fuel stop in Jinjeop
fuel
Fuel at 0 km.
- Scenic stretch near Hanam
scenic
Scenic stretch near Hanam comes up 58 km in.
- High point near Gwangju
pass
Gwangju in Gyeonggi province is not to be confused with the much larger city of Gwangju in the south-west. This Gwangju lies south-east of Seoul, in a landscape of wooded hills and valleys, and it is home to one of Korea's most important historic sites: Namhansanseong, a mountain fortress on the ridges above the city, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014.
In the winter of 1636, when the Qing army invaded Korea, King Injo took refuge in Namhansanseong with his court and soldiers. They held out for forty-seven days, cold and short of food, before the king surrendered and was forced to bow to the Qing emperor at Samjeondo, by the Han river, a humiliation that Koreans still remember. The fortress walls, gates and buildings have been restored, and walking along the walls, with views over Seoul and the surrounding hills, is a highlight.
For riders, the roads up to Namhansanseong are winding and steep, with tight bends and views, and they are popular with motorcyclists and cyclists. The village inside the fortress has restaurants serving traditional food, including chicken stews and grilled meats. To the east, Paldang Lake and the Han river offer scenic riding along the water.
Traffic can be heavy, especially on weekends and in the autumn foliage season. Surfaces are generally good, but the mountain roads demand care. Fuel and food are available in Gwangju and the surrounding towns. As a scenic stretch, the fortress and its views are unforgettable.
- Photo stop in Hwaseong-si
photo
Hwaseong-si stretches across the western edge of Gyeonggi province, from the suburbs of Suwon to the mudflats and islands of the Yellow Sea. Its name echoes the famous Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, but the city itself has its own treasures, both royal and coastal.
In the hills near the city centre lie Yungneung and Geolleung, the royal tombs of Crown Prince Sado and his son, King Jeongjo. Sado's story is one of the great tragedies of Korean history: his father, King Yeongjo, had him locked in a rice chest in 1762, where he died after eight days. Jeongjo, who became king, honoured his father's memory by moving his tomb here and building the fortress at Suwon nearby. The tombs are part of the UNESCO-listed Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty, and the pine forest around them is peaceful.
On the coast, the island of Jebudo is connected to the mainland by a road that disappears under the sea at high tide and emerges at low tide, a phenomenon that draws many visitors. Check the tide times before you go, or you may find yourself stranded. Jeongok and Gungpyeong ports have seafood restaurants and markets, and the sunsets over the mudflats are spectacular.
For riders, the coastal roads offer flat, open riding with views over the sea and the mudflats, while the inland roads are busier. Traffic can be heavy on weekends. Fuel and food are plentiful. As a photo stop, Jebudo at low tide or the mudflats at sunset are unforgettable.
- Food stop near Seonwon
food
Food at 231 km, roughly 5 hours into the riding.
- Near Anyang-si
finish
Gwanaksan rises over the southern edge of Seoul, a ridge of bare granite with a small hermitage perched on a cliff near the summit, and its rocky profile is one of the landmarks of the city. Seoul National University, the country's top university, sits at its northern foot, and the trails up the mountain are crowded with hikers in bright outdoor gear on weekends.
This finish lies on the western side of the mountain, near Anyang, a city of apartment towers and industrial estates south of Seoul. The Anyang Art Park, in a valley on the slopes, has outdoor sculptures and pavilions by international architects and artists, set among the trees and the stream, an unusual open-air gallery.
The Anyangcheon stream, which runs north through the city to the Han, is lined with cycle paths and parks, and on summer evenings it is full of walkers, joggers and cyclists. The stream was cleaned up in recent decades after years of pollution, and it is now home to fish, herons and ducks.
Coming back from Yangpyeong, a day of mountain roads and river valleys east of Seoul, the final stretch crosses the city or loops around it on the national roads. Without the expressways, it is slow, with traffic lights and heavy traffic at rush hour.
If daylight allows, ride up into the art-park valley before you call it a day; the stream, the trees and the odd pavilions are a quiet decompression after the national roads. Down in the city, fuel stations and konbini-style marts are never far away.
- Back to Yangpyeong
finish
Gwangneung is the forest of kings. The royal tomb of King Sejo, the seventh king of Joseon, and his queen lies on a wooded hillside in the northern part of Namyangju, and the surrounding forest, protected for more than five hundred years, is one of the best-preserved old woods in Korea.
The ride that ends here is the second part of a mountain tour, and the hills of Yangpyeong are not far to the east. The roads are winding and quiet, with bends through oak and hornbeam woods, and the surface is generally good, though patched in places. Traffic is light on weekdays, and the lanes between the villages are pleasant. In autumn, the red maples and golden ginkgoes draw crowds to the arboretum, so a weekday or early start is best.
The forest has an unusual status. Its trees, among them old hornbeams and oaks, shelter a wide range of wildlife, including the rare black woodpecker, and the whole area is a biosphere reserve. The royal tombs of the Joseon dynasty, including this one, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they are laid out according to the geomantic principles of Korea, with a mountain behind and water in front. A stone path leads past the figures of civil officials, horses and sheep, which guard the tomb.
Fuel and food are available in Namyangju and Pocheon, and several restaurants stand along the roads, serving hearty country food. Pocheon is known for its makgeolli, a rice wine, and its galbi, grilled beef ribs. Cafes near the arboretum are open in the daytime.
Walk slowly beneath the trees if you stop. The quiet of the forest is the same silence that kings once demanded.