Danyang River and Passes

3 passes in 236 km, topping out at 2220 m

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Why this ride

Scenery first, traffic last, with checkpoints that make sense on a bike. Out of Anyang-si and back again: 236 km, roughly 4 h 55 in the saddle. The climbs: near Ansan-si, Scenic stretch near Goyang-si and in Beobwon. Much of it runs through woodland.

Roadbook

1. Fuel stop near Anyang-si fuel

   Gwanaksan rises over the southern edge of Seoul, a ridge of bare granite with a small hermitage perched on a cliff near the summit, and its rocky profile is one of the landmarks of the city. Seoul National University, the country's top university, sits at its northern foot, and the trails up the mountain are crowded with hikers in bright outdoor gear on weekends.

   This finish lies on the western side of the mountain, near Anyang, a city of apartment towers and industrial estates south of Seoul. The Anyang Art Park, in a valley on the slopes, has outdoor sculptures and pavilions by international architects and artists, set among the trees and the stream, an unusual open-air gallery.

   The Anyangcheon stream, which runs north through the city to the Han, is lined with cycle paths and parks, and on summer evenings it is full of walkers, joggers and cyclists. The stream was cleaned up in recent decades after years of pollution, and it is now home to fish, herons and ducks.

   Coming back from Yangpyeong, a day of mountain roads and river valleys east of Seoul, the final stretch crosses the city or loops around it on the national roads. Without the expressways, it is slow, with traffic lights and heavy traffic at rush hour.

   If daylight allows, ride up into the art-park valley before you call it a day; the stream, the trees and the odd pavilions are a quiet decompression after the national roads. Down in the city, fuel stations and konbini-style marts are never far away.

2. High point near Ansan-si pass

   You top out here; the road stops climbing.

3. Near Bucheon-si finish

   Seoul does not really end; it merges into one city after another, and Bucheon is one of them, a dense, busy satellite city of around eight hundred and fifty thousand people squeezed between the capital and the port of Incheon. Nearby Gwangmyeong and the southwestern districts of Seoul blend into it, and the whole area is a sea of apartment towers, shopping streets, factories and elevated roads. It is not a beautiful place to finish, but it is a practical one.

   Bucheon has carved out an identity as a city of culture. It hosts the Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival every summer, one of Asia's best-known genre film festivals, and it is home to the Korean Manhwa Museum, dedicated to Korean comics. Nearby, Gwangmyeong Cave is an old gold mine that has been turned into a strange and popular attraction, with light shows, a wine cellar and an aquarium deep underground, and it is a cool refuge on a hot summer day.

   The ride back from Danyang is a long one. Danyang lies far to the south-east, on the Namhan river among limestone cliffs and mountains, and the passes and river roads there are among the best in the country. Coming back, it is worth knowing that motorcycles are banned from Korean expressways, so you must use the national roads and local roads, which means traffic lights, towns and slow progress as you approach the capital region. Plan for heavy traffic in the late afternoon, especially on Sundays when everyone returns from the countryside. Riders here are used to filtering, but it is not always legal, and police enforcement varies.

   Practically, the area has everything. Fuel stations are easy to find, as are convenience stores, fried chicken shops, barbecue restaurants and noodle houses, and many places stay open late. If you are returning a rental bike or meeting someone, Gimpo Airport and the subway lines into central Seoul are close.

   Treat this as a pit stop after the mountains. Find a restaurant with a parking spot for the bike, order a bowl of naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles in icy broth if it is summer, or a hot stew if it is winter, and let the noise and lights of the city wash over you.

4. Scenic stretch near Goyang-si pass

   The high point of this section.

5. Photo stop in Beobwon pass

   Photo stop in Beobwon tops the climb.

6. Near Yangp'yŏng, on the way back swim

   Yangpyeong is where Seoul riders go to breathe. An hour east of the capital, the Bukhan and Namhan rivers come together at a place called Dumulmeori, literally "where two waters meet", and around them spread wooded mountains, farmland, small towns and riverside cafés. The county has around eighty thousand people, and on weekends the roads fill with motorcycles heading out from the city.

   Dumulmeori is the classic image: a broad still river with mist in the early morning, an old zelkova tree on the bank, and wooden boats moored in the shallows. Photographers come before dawn to catch the light, and the riverside walks and the lotus gardens at Semiwon, nearby, are lovely in summer when the flowers bloom. Further into the hills, the temple of Yongmunsa sits in a forested valley below Yongmunsan mountain, and in its courtyard stands an enormous ginkgo tree, said to be more than a thousand years old and protected as a natural monument. In late October it turns bright gold and drops a carpet of leaves.

   For swimming, the rivers themselves are not the place; they are broad and slow, and swimming is often restricted. The valleys are better. Small streams come down from the mountains through clear pools, and in July and August Koreans flock to these mountain valleys to sit in the water and eat. Some have designated areas with shallow pools and shaded banks. Water levels can rise fast during the summer monsoon, so avoid them after heavy rain.

   The riding is the main draw. Routes 6 and 37 run along the rivers and through the mountains, with long curves, good surfaces and views over the water, and there are many smaller roads climbing to passes and valleys. Motorcycles are banned from expressways in Korea, so these national roads are the main routes out of Seoul. Weekends bring lots of traffic, including cars and other riders, so weekdays or early mornings are more relaxed. Spring, with cherry blossoms along the river, and autumn, with red and gold forests, are the best seasons.

   Yangpyeong town has fuel, convenience stores and many restaurants, and the riverside is full of cafés popular with riders. A pot of maeuntang, the spicy fish stew of river country, is the classic meal before the ride back into the city.

7. Food stop near Yangp'yŏng food

   Two rivers meet at Yangpyeong. The North Han and the South Han join at a place called Dumulmeori, literally the meeting of two waters, east of Seoul, and the spot, with its ancient zelkova tree, misty mornings and old ferry landing, has become one of the most photographed in Korea. At dawn, mist rises off the water and fishermen's boats sit motionless, a scene that seems far removed from the megacity an hour away.

   Yangpyeong County is a green, hilly region of farms, forests and rivers, a favourite weekend escape for people from Seoul. In its mountains stands Yongmunsa, a Buddhist temple with a ginkgo tree said to be over a thousand years old, one of the largest and oldest in Asia, which turns brilliant yellow in autumn. The area is also known for its organic farms and its riverside cafés.

   For riders, Yangpyeong is the gateway to the east. Roads follow the rivers and climb into the mountains of Gangwon Province towards Seoraksan, one of Korea's most famous national parks. Motorcycles are not allowed on expressways in Korea, so riders use the national roads, which are often scenic and winding. Traffic can be heavy on weekends, especially in autumn, when crowds head east to see the leaves.

   Yangpyeong offers fuel, convenience stores and cheap restaurants, and the riverside has many cafés and eateries popular with riders. Try a bowl of naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles, on a hot day, or a hearty stew in winter. Fill up here before heading into the mountains, where services become sparse and distances between villages grow.

8. Back to Danyang River finish

   It does not look like a place for a story, but it has a few. The name means something like peaceful and safe, and was given in the tenth century after a Buddhist temple, Anyangsa, that once stood here. Today the city has a long stream, the Anyangcheon, with a green path along its banks, and, on the hillside near Mount Samseong, the Anyang Art Park, where sculptures and installations by artists from around the world are scattered through the woods.

   The label is for a trip to the Danyang River and its mountain passes, far in the south-east, and the city is a handy starting point for it. Danyang, in North Chungcheong, is where the Namhan River curves between steep limestone cliffs and the high ridges of Sobaeksan, and the roads between are among the nicest in central Korea. Passes such as Jungnyeong take you up through forest in long, clear bends, with tunnels and bridges that give wide views over the valleys, and the traffic is usually light on weekdays.

   The first stage of the ride is the escape from the capital, a stretch of expressway that can be crowded at weekends. Leaving at dawn pays off. Once beyond the satellite cities, the land opens, and the roads wind through farmland and forested hills, with small towns and apple orchards. In autumn the maples colour the slopes, and the air is clear. Winter can bring ice and snow to the high passes, so check conditions before going.

   Anyang is a place with stations on every road, and shops and convenience stores that sell hot drinks and snacks all night. The expressway rest areas serve noodles, rice dishes and good coffee. Korea drives on the right, and cameras are everywhere, with limits clearly marked, so keep your speed in check. If you have a spare half hour before you leave, walk along the stream or visit the art park, and you will start the day with a quieter mind.

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