Namhansanseong Ridge Loop

Two passes and 364 km

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Why this ride

A proper escape from Seoul with roads worth waking up for. A 364 km loop that starts and ends near Osan, about 6 h 37 of riding. The climbs: near Tangjin and Yŏnan-ŭp. It crosses from South Korea into North Korea - carry ID and check vignette or toll rules. The line favours views over speed.

Roadbook

1. Fuel stop near Osan fuel

   Osan is a city in Gyeonggi province, south of Seoul and Suwon, best known abroad for the US air base that bears its name, though the base actually lies a little further south, in Pyeongtaek. The city itself is modern and busy, with apartment blocks, markets and a lively centre, and it makes a practical stop on the way south.

   Osan has an important place in the history of the Korean War. In July 1950, just north of the city, a small American unit, Task Force Smith, fought the first battle between US and North Korean forces, a delaying action that ended in a costly retreat. A memorial marks the site.

   On a hill in the city stands Doksanseong, a mountain fortress dating back to the Three Kingdoms period. According to a famous story, during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, the Korean general Kwon Yul, besieged here without water, had his men pour rice over a horse in full view of the enemy, so that it looked as though they were washing it with abundant water. The Japanese, convinced the defenders had plenty, withdrew. A pavilion called Semadae, the horse-washing terrace, commemorates the tale, and the view from the walls is wide.

   As a high point and fuel stop, the fortress hill offers views over the city and the surrounding plain. Fuel and food are plentiful in Osan. The roads south and east lead towards the mountains of Chungcheong and the Seoraksan region, with traffic heavy near the city but easing as you head into the countryside.

2. High point near Tangjin pass

   You top out here; the road stops climbing.

3. Yŏnan-ŭp pass

   This is where the road stops climbing.

4. Near Kwangmyŏng finish

   Under a hill in Gwangmyeong, a disused gold mine has been turned into one of the stranger tourist attractions near Seoul. The Gwangmyeong Cave, worked for metal for much of the twentieth century and later used to store salted shrimp, now has light shows, an underground aquarium and a wine cellar stocked with Korean wines, all in tunnels kept at a cool, constant temperature even in the heat of August.

   This finish lies on the south-western edge of Seoul, near Gwangmyeong, where the city spills into Gyeonggi province. The Anyangcheon stream, lined with cycle paths and parks, runs north to the Han, and the area is a mix of apartment towers, markets and industrial estates. The KTX high-speed station, an airy steel hall, is a short ride south.

   Coming back from Ganghwa Island, the island of dolmens, fortresses and tidal flats at the mouth of the Han, the closing kilometres take the national roads through Gimpo and the western suburbs. With motorcycles barred from Korea's expressways, it is slow going, with traffic lights, buses and heavy traffic at rush hour. Take care at intersections, where turning cars are a hazard.

   Gwangmyeong has a big traditional market, where stalls sell rice cakes, fried snacks, kimchi and fresh produce, and the food alleys are full of small restaurants serving noodles, soups and grilled meat. Fuel and convenience stores are on every main road. Eat in the market rather than a chain: perch on a plastic stool, point at whatever the next table is having, and accept the extra side dishes that will arrive whether you ordered them or not.

5. Back to Namhansanseong finish

   Back at Namhansanseong. That is the ride.

Where this sits

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