Seoul · Bukhan River and Gapyeong Roads
A 133 km loop from Namyangju river
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Why this ride
River roads and mountain edges outside the capital. 133 km round from Namyangju - plan on about 2 h 18 of riding. On the way it passes Gapyeong lake road and Cheongpyeong.
Roadbook
- Namyangju river gate
fuel
Namyangju lies where the Han river's two great branches come together, the North Han running down from the mountains of Gangwon and the South Han from the east, and the point where they meet, a few kilometres east of the city at Dumulmeori on the Yangpyeong bank, is one of the loveliest spots near Seoul. The name means two waters, and the broad, calm river, framed by hills, is a favourite subject for photographers at dawn, when mist rises from the surface. Paldang, where the river is dammed, has become the favourite gathering place for riders and cyclists from the capital.
The city has several things worth knowing. It is the birthplace of Jeong Yak-yong, known as Dasan, the great scholar of the late Joseon dynasty who wrote on government, science and farming, and his home and memorial are open to the public, with a small museum and a garden by the river. Namyangju also has the royal tombs of Gwangneung, the resting place of King Sejo, set in a forest that is one of the best-preserved in the country, and those of Hongneung and Yureung, where the last two emperors of Korea are buried.
With ninety thousand inhabitants, Namyangju has plenty of fuel and food, and the stations along the riverside road are open late. The roads along the river are among the pleasantest around Seoul, with views of the water and wooded slopes, and a good number of cafes and restaurants overlooking the river, serving coffee, noodles and grilled fish. Weekends bring many riders, cyclists and day-trippers, so the roads are busy, and it is better to come early. On a weekday morning, the river is quiet and the light soft.
Remember that motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways, so the routes from Seoul follow the riverside national road and its neighbours, which carry plenty of traffic and have speed cameras every few kilometres. These are marked by signs, and drivers slow down, only to accelerate again after them. Autumn brings red and gold to the hillsides, and winter freezes the river edges and covers the reeds in frost. In summer, humidity is high, and sudden downpours in the monsoon season can make the road slippery. Plan your stops for coffee along the way, and enjoy the water.
- Gapyeong lake road
swim
Gapyeong is a river town in the mountains east of Seoul, where the Bukhan river is dammed to form Cheongpyeong lake, and the roads along the shore are among the best loved in the region. The town, at the gate of the high country, has about fifty-five thousand people, and its streets are full of cafes, pensions and shops catering to weekenders from the capital. The air is cooler than in the city, and the hills around the lake are covered in pine and oak.
The district has a surprising number of visitor attractions. Nami Island, a small tree-lined islet in the river reached by ferry or zip wire, was the setting of the television drama Winter Sonata, and draws crowds from across Asia. The Garden of Morning Calm, a landscaped park in the hills, is beautiful in all seasons, with lantern festivals in winter. In October, Gapyeong hosts a jazz festival on a river island, and thousands of people camp along the banks.
Gapyeong also has a serious history. In April 1951, in the Korean War, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and British soldiers held back a major Chinese attack in the valley, in what is known as the Battle of Gapyeong, and several memorials commemorate it. Walking among them is a quiet and moving experience. Local products include pine nuts, which grow on the mountain slopes and are sold in shops and used in porridge, tea and cooking.
For riders, the lake road is a fine, winding ride, with views of the water and the hills, and it offers plenty of places to stop. The roads are generally well surfaced, though busy at weekends, and it is best to ride on weekdays or early in the morning. Fuel and food are easy in the town. Chuncheon, twenty kilometres further, is famous for dakgalbi, spicy stir-fried chicken, and is a popular destination. Fog hangs on the lake on cool mornings, and in autumn the mountains turn red and gold. In winter, take care on shaded corners where ice may linger, and remember that motorcycles are not allowed on the expressways, so you must use the lake road and its parallel routes.
- Cheongpyeong food
food
Cheongpyeong lake is a long, narrow reservoir created in the early 1940s when a dam was built across the Bukhan river, and its waters now fill several arms of the valley, with the road following the shore. The dam was built to produce electricity for the growing city of Seoul, and it remains a source of power and drinking water. The shoreline, with its steep wooded slopes and small coves, is far more attractive than the story of its origin would suggest.
Riverside restaurants are the main attraction for a food stop. Along the water, family-run places serve maeuntang, a spicy freshwater fish stew with vegetables and chilli, and grilled river fish with rice and side dishes, brought to the table in a series of small plates that seem to multiply as the meal goes on. Pajeon, a savoury pancake with spring onions, comes with the local rice wine, though riders must say no to the latter. Lunch is generally served between eleven and three, and many places close in the afternoon.
The area is also a place of weekend retreat for the people of Seoul, who come to walk, fish and enjoy the clean air. Pensions and campsites are scattered along the shore, and there are paths for hiking in the hills above. The lake is calm in the morning, and mist often hangs on the surface, with fishermen in small boats waiting for the day to warm. In autumn, the reflection of the red maples on the water draws photographers.
Gapyeong, thirteen kilometres away, and Hwado, a little farther, have more than fifty thousand and a hundred thousand people respectively, and both have fuel stations, supermarkets and rooms. Small shops near the lake may sell snacks and drinks, but fuel is not reliable, so fill up beforehand. The road is winding and well maintained, though traffic can be heavy on summer and autumn weekends. Be careful on the sharp bends and in tunnels, where the light changes suddenly. Motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways, so this lakeside road is the usual route, and a good one. In winter, ice and snow can close or slow sections, and the air is cold and dry.
- Back to Namyangju
finish
Namyangju lies east of Seoul, where two rivers, the Bukhan and the South Han, join to form the Han, and the meeting place is one of the most pleasant landscapes in the capital region. A quiet bend of water, reeds, boats and low hills with Mount Cheonma standing behind, it has been a place for poets and philosophers for centuries. The town, with ninety thousand people, is a base for riders heading up the Bukhan valley, and its lanes are lined with cafes with river views that are popular on weekends.
The town is the birthplace of Jeong Yak-yong, known as Dasan, a scholar of the late Joseon dynasty who wrote hundreds of books on administration, science and ethics, much of it while in exile for eighteen years. His house and memorial hall, on the riverbank, are a pleasant place to walk, and the paths follow the river among willow trees and lotus ponds. Dasan wrote that a government should serve the people, a radical idea in his time, and Koreans still hold him in high esteem.
The riding here is the reason people come. The river road, along the Bukhan, is a pleasant, winding route with gentle curves and wide views, and the road from here toward Gapyeong rises into forested hills with a few more serious bends. At weekends, the roads are crowded with riders, cyclists and cars, and the cafes along the river fill up. A weekday or an early start is the answer. In autumn, the maples colour the hillsides, and in winter, the river sometimes steams in the cold, with snow on the hills.
Namyangju has stations on every main road, and plenty of places to eat, from noodle shops to grilled duck, a regional favourite. The surface is generally excellent, and the signage is clear, though speed cameras are frequent and enforced. Watch the lights where the roads cross the railway, and take care at the dusk when cyclists share the river path. A cup of coffee at a riverside cafe is the right way to begin or end a ride.