Spiti Circuit · part 2

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

1. 1. Nako

   Nako is a village you reach after a day of mountain road, and you feel the effort as soon as you arrive. It lies at about 3,600 metres in the Hangrang valley of Kinnaur, in Himachal Pradesh, close to the border with Tibet. The village is built of stone and timber and clings to a hillside above a small lake, with willow and poplar trees around its edge and the great peak of Reo Purgyil standing in the distance, more than 6,700 metres high.

   Read the complete Nako write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Nako is where the day begins. Next is Kaza.

2. 2. Kaza

   Spiti means the middle land, the place between India and Tibet, and Kaza is its capital in the way that a cluster of low whitewashed buildings in a very large landscape can be a capital. It lies at about thirty-eight hundred metres on the bank of the Spiti river, in a wide valley of grey and ochre mountains with almost no trees, where the sky is a hard dark blue and the air is thin and dry. The climate is cold desert, with snow in winter and little rain in summer, and the people live by barley, peas and yak herding, and by the monasteries that have shaped life here for a thousand years.

   Read the complete Kaza write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Kaza comes up about 110 km into the recorded legs. Next is Kunzum Pass.

3. 3. Kunzum Pass

   At 4,551 metres, Kunzum Pass is the gate between two worlds. On one side lies Lahaul, with the Chandra river and the green fringes of the Himalayan monsoon. On the other side lies Spiti, a high, dry cold desert where the mountains are bare and brown, the sky is absurdly blue, and villages sit in oases on the valley floor. The pass is the only road link between the two valleys, and it is closed by snow for much of the year, usually opening around June and shutting again by October or earlier.

   Read the complete Kunzum Pass write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   about 186 km into the recorded legs you reach Kunzum Pass. Next is Manali.

4. 4. Manāli

   Manāli is where the plains give up and the Himalaya begins in earnest. The town sits in the Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh, on the banks of the Beas, among deodar forests and apple orchards, with snow peaks rising behind. Old Manali, across the river, is the quieter half, a tangle of lanes, wooden houses and cafes, and in the cedar woods above the town stands the Hadimba temple, a pagoda-like wooden shrine built in the sixteenth century and dedicated to a figure from the Mahabharata. The valley has long been a stopping place for traders, travellers and, more recently, backpackers and motorcyclists.

   Read the complete Manali write-up.

   Recorded stop-planning note

   May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

   Planning note

   Manāli closes the day.