Nako is a village you reach after a day of mountain road, and you feel the effort as soon as you arrive. It lies at about 3,600 metres in the Hangrang valley of Kinnaur, in Himachal Pradesh, close to the border with Tibet. The village is built of stone and timber and clings to a hillside above a small lake, with willow and poplar trees around its edge and the great peak of Reo Purgyil standing in the distance, more than 6,700 metres high.
Culturally you have crossed a line here. Kinnaur is a mix of Hindu and Buddhist traditions, and Nako has a group of old Buddhist temples dating back, according to tradition, to the time of the translator Rinchen Zangpo, who spread Buddhism in the western Himalaya about a thousand years ago. Inside are wall paintings and clay statues that have survived the cold and the centuries. The lake freezes in winter and in summer reflects the sky.
The riding is the real adventure. The road follows the Sutlej and Spiti rivers through steep gorges, and in places it is cut into the rock above a drop of hundreds of metres, with narrow sections, rockfall and landslides. Hairpins climb to the village from the valley floor. Expect gravel patches, water crossings after rain and sudden changes in weather. Altitude is serious, so acclimatise before you push on, and watch for signs of mountain sickness. The best season is from late spring to early autumn, because snow closes the road in winter.
Reckong Peo, further down the valley, and Kaza in Spiti are the larger centres, and both have fuel pumps, though supplies can run short. Small guesthouses and cafes offer simple food, usually dal, rice, momos and tea. Regulations for foreigners and permits in border areas change, so check with local authorities before you go. The reward is the lake at dawn, with smoke from the kitchen fires rising into clear, cold air.