Manali is where the plains give up and the Himalaya begins in earnest. The town sits in the Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh, on the banks of the Beas, among deodar forests and apple orchards, with snow peaks rising behind. Old Manali, across the river, is the quieter half, a tangle of lanes, wooden houses and cafes, and in the cedar woods above the town stands the Hadimba temple, a pagoda-like wooden shrine built in the sixteenth century and dedicated to a figure from the Mahabharata. The valley has long been a stopping place for traders, travellers and, more recently, backpackers and motorcyclists.
For riders, Manali is the gateway to some of the most famous roads in the world. The Spiti Valley circuit sets out from here, climbing through the Atal Tunnel, a nine-kilometre bore under the Rohtang Pass that opened in 2020 and cut hours off the journey to Lahaul. Beyond lie high, bare mountain roads, river crossings, landslide sections and passes over four thousand metres, including Kunzum La at about 4,550 metres, the entrance to Spiti. The surface can be broken and muddy, and conditions change quickly, with snow possible even in summer. The season runs roughly from June to October, and many high roads close in winter.
Manali has a few thousand people, plus thousands of seasonal visitors, so fuel, workshops and food are plentiful. Nagar, a smaller town about eleven kilometres away, has an old castle with a view of the valley. Fill the tank and take spare fuel in a container before leaving, since stations on the Spiti route are few and far between, with Kaza the main supply point inside the valley. Altitude is a serious matter, so acclimatise, drink water and listen to your body.
The food in Manali is a pleasure, from momos and thukpa to trout from the Beas, and the sun in the morning is warm even when the air is cold. Rise early, because the road is quietest then, and the light on the snow peaks is magical. Carry warm clothing, and always tell someone where you are going.