Mounded Tomb of Emperor Temmu and Empress and Kôyasan - Niutsuhime-jinja
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
212 km
Riding-time estimate
3 h 57
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
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Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
A 212 km round trip from Kashihara-shi - roughly 3 h 57 in the saddle. It goes by way of Hokki-ji Area, Nisanzai Kofun, Kôyasan - Niutsuhime-jinja and back through Nisanzai Kofun. It was put together for the scenery rather than the shortest line.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Mounded Tomb of Emperor Temmu and Empress
Under a modest round hill in the rice fields of Asuka lie two people who changed Japan: the Emperor Temmu, who died in 686, and his wife, who ruled after him as Empress Jito. Temmu had come to power by winning a short and bloody civil war in 672, the Jinshin disturbance, after hiding for a while in the mountains of Yoshino. Jito, who died in 702, was cremated, unusually for her time, and her ashes were laid beside her husband's. The tomb is octagonal, an echo of the imperial throne's shape, and a deliberate rank marker in the burial customs of the late seventh century.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Mounded Tomb of Emperor Temmu and Empress is where the day begins. Next is Hokki-ji Area.
2. Hokki-ji Area
Ikaruga, a quiet town on the western edge of the Nara basin, is where Japanese Buddhist architecture begins. The temple of Hōryū-ji, founded by Prince Shōtoku in the early seventh century, has wooden buildings counted among the oldest surviving in the world, and in 1993 the Buddhist Monuments in the Hōryū-ji Area became, along with Himeji Castle, the first Japanese sites on the UNESCO list. A short distance north, among rice fields and houses, Hokki-ji is a smaller temple with a single treasure: a three-storey pagoda completed in the early eighth century, the oldest of its type in Japan. Seen across the fields with the hills behind, it is a lovely, peaceful sight.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Hokki-ji Area comes up about 28 km into the recorded legs. Next is Nisanzai Kofun.
3. Nisanzai Kofun
In the middle of the sprawling city of Sakai, south of Osaka, a large keyhole-shaped mound rises above a ring of moats, covered in dense forest and surrounded by houses, roads and shops. This is the Nisanzai Kofun, a monumental tomb built in the fifth century for a member of the ruling elite of early Japan. It is one of the largest of the Mozu-Furuichi Kofun Group, a collection of burial mounds listed by UNESCO in 2019, which includes the enormous Daisen Kofun, traditionally attributed to the emperor Nintoku and one of the largest tombs in the world by area.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 58 km into the recorded legs you reach Nisanzai Kofun. Next is Kôyasan - Niutsuhime-jinja.
4. Kôyasan - Niutsuhime-jinja
A hunter with two dogs, according to the legend, is why Koyasan exists. When the monk Kukai, later called Kobo Daishi, returned from studying in China in the early ninth century, he threw a ritual three-pronged object into the air and asked it to land on a site for a mountain monastery. He found it hanging in a pine tree on a high plateau in the Kii mountains, and there he met a hunter, the god Karibamyojin, who led him to the place with his dogs. The hunter's mother, the goddess Niutsuhime, is honoured at the shrine that guards the approach. Kukai founded his monastery in 816, and Koyasan has been the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism since.