Ikaruga, a quiet town on the western edge of the Nara basin, is where Japanese Buddhist architecture begins. The temple of Hōryū-ji, founded by Prince Shōtoku in the early seventh century, has wooden buildings counted among the oldest surviving in the world, and in 1993 the Buddhist Monuments in the Hōryū-ji Area became, along with Himeji Castle, the first Japanese sites on the UNESCO list. A short distance north, among rice fields and houses, Hokki-ji is a smaller temple with a single treasure: a three-storey pagoda completed in the early eighth century, the oldest of its type in Japan. Seen across the fields with the hills behind, it is a lovely, peaceful sight.
Prince Shōtoku is a towering figure in Japanese history, a regent credited with promoting Buddhism, drafting a seventeen-article constitution and opening diplomatic relations with China. His legacy is everywhere in Ikaruga: in the temples, in the street names and on the souvenirs. The area is green and gentle, with persimmon orchards, rice paddies and wooded hills, and in autumn the colours of the maples and the orange persimmons are spectacular.
Riding in the Nara basin is mostly a matter of navigating suburban roads, with traffic lights, convenience stores and narrow streets around the temples. Traffic is moderate, but watch for cyclists and pedestrians, and be patient. For more exciting riding, head west into the Ikoma and Shigi mountains that separate Nara from Osaka, where winding roads climb through the forest to temples and viewpoints, with views over the plain. There is also a toll road along the Ikoma ridge, short but scenic, famous for its night views over the lights of Osaka.
Hōryūji town, a kilometre away, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and Nara city, nine kilometres away, has everything. Try kakinoha-zushi, sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves, a Nara speciality, or a bowl of soba. Many temples in the area have small cafés or tea houses, perfect for a break. Bring cash, as smaller places may not accept cards, and remove your shoes before entering temple halls.