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501 km from Chiuiești to Chiuiești, about 11 h 53 of riding. It goes by way of Perișor - Vârful Colnicului, Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii, Wooden Churches of Maramureş and Chornohora. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,150 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It crosses from Romania into Ukraine - carry ID and check vignette or toll rules. The line favours views over speed.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Chiuiești - Muncelul Chiuieștiului
North of Dej, in the hills of Cluj county, the land rises into a rolling upland of pastures, orchards and beech woods, cut by small valleys and dotted with villages. Muncelul Chiuieștiului is one of the hilltops above the village of Chiuiești, and the name is listed among archaeological sites of the Roman frontier in Dacia, which in this region ran along the hills to protect the province from the free Dacians and other peoples to the north. What exactly stood on this hilltop is something to learn from the local signs rather than assume; much of the frontier here consisted of small watchtowers and earthworks that left only faint traces.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Chiuiești - Muncelul Chiuieștiului is where the day begins. Next is Perișor - Vârful Colnicului.
2. Perișor - Vârful Colnicului
The upper valley of the Zagra stream, in the hills of Bistrița-Năsăud county in northern Transylvania, is the sort of place that has produced poets. The village of Hordou, now named Coșbuc, birthplace of the poet George Coșbuc, lies not far away, near Năsăud, and Liviu Rebreanu, one of Romania's great novelists, was born in Târlișua, a little to the west. The hills around Perișor and Zagra, with the summit called Vârful Colnicului, are a landscape of meadows, beech woods and scattered farms that seems to have stepped out of their books.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Perișor - Vârful Colnicului comes up 43 km in. Next is Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii.
3. Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii
The Țibleș mountains rise like a dark wall between the Lăpuș country and the valleys of Maramureș, a volcanic range of dense spruce and beech forest topping out at nearly two thousand metres. On their slopes, near the source known as Izvorul Șurii above the village of Groșii Țibleșului, the forest feels almost untouched: springs bubbling out of mossy banks, fallen trunks covered in fungi, and a silence broken only by woodpeckers and the wind. This is bear country, and wolves and lynx roam these woods too. The area lies on the edge of the Maramureș region, famous for its wooden churches, carved gates and deeply traditional village life.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
85 km in you reach Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii. Next is Wooden Churches of Maramureş.
4. Wooden Churches of Maramureş
Maramureș is a region in the far north of Romania, along the Ukrainian border, where traditions have survived more strongly than almost anywhere else in Europe. Its villages are known for their carved wooden gates, their haystacks and their wooden churches, eight of which form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bârsana, in the valley of the Iza river, has one of them, a church built in the eighteenth century, with a tall slender spire and a steep shingled roof.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Wooden Churches of Maramureş, about halfway. Next is Chornohora.
5. Chornohora
Chornohora, the Black Mountain, is the highest range of the Ukrainian Carpathians, a long ridge of rounded summits above the forests on the border between the Zakarpattia and Ivano-Frankivsk regions. Its highest peak, Hoverla, rises to 2,061 metres, the highest point in Ukraine, and on summer weekends it can be busy with hikers. Along the ridge to the southeast stands Pip Ivan, crowned by the ruins of an astronomical and meteorological observatory built by Poland in the 1930s, when this was the border with Czechoslovakia. Locals call it the White Elephant, and seeing it loom out of the mist is unforgettable.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 501 km.
Leg by leg
Chiuiești - Muncelul Chiuieștiului to Perișor - Vârful Colnicului
Chiuiești - Muncelul Chiuieștiului → Perișor - Vârful Colnicului is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Perișor - Vârful Colnicului to Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii
Perișor - Vârful Colnicului → Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii to Wooden Churches of Maramureş
Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii → Wooden Churches of Maramureş is 42 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Wooden Churches of Maramureş to Chornohora
Wooden Churches of Maramureş → Chornohora is 57 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Chornohora to back through Wooden Churches of Maramureş
Chornohora → back through Wooden Churches of Maramureş is 57 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Wooden Churches of Maramureş to back through Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii
back through Wooden Churches of Maramureş → back through Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii is 42 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii to back through Perișor - Vârful Colnicului
back through Groșii Țibleșului - Izvorul Șurii → back through Perișor - Vârful Colnicului is 36 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Perișor - Vârful Colnicului to Chiuiești - Muncelul Chiuieștiului
back through Perișor - Vârful Colnicului → Chiuiești - Muncelul Chiuieștiului is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.