Maramureș is a region in the far north of Romania, along the Ukrainian border, where traditions have survived more strongly than almost anywhere else in Europe. Its villages are known for their carved wooden gates, their haystacks and their wooden churches, eight of which form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bârsana, in the valley of the Iza river, has one of them, a church built in the eighteenth century, with a tall slender spire and a steep shingled roof.
The wooden churches were built by the Orthodox and Greek Catholic communities of Maramureș, who were often not allowed to build in stone under Hungarian rule. They developed a distinctive style, with tall spires rising above the villages, and interiors covered in painted scenes from the Bible, often mixing religious themes with local life. Bârsana is also home to a large modern monastery, built of wood in traditional style since the 1990s, which has become a popular destination for pilgrims and visitors.
The riding in Maramureș is a joy. The roads follow the river valleys, winding between villages and over hills, with views of meadows, forests and mountains. Traffic is light, but expect horse-drawn carts, livestock and pedestrians on the roads, especially in villages. Surfaces vary, with some good main roads and some rough minor ones. The Prislop pass, to the east, crosses into Moldavia and Bukovina with fine views. Summer is the best season, with warm days and cool nights, and autumn colours are spectacular. Winters are cold and snowy.
Bârsana has basic services, and Sighetu Marmației, the main town of the region, has fuel and more choice. The local food is hearty: sarmale, cabbage rolls, mămăligă, polenta, and pălincă, a strong plum brandy. Many villages offer homestays where you can experience traditional life. The Merry Cemetery at Săpânța, with its brightly painted wooden crosses and humorous epitaphs, is a short ride north-west. Sunday mornings, when villagers in traditional dress walk to church, are a wonderful time to visit.