North of Dej, in the hills of Cluj county, the land rises into a rolling upland of pastures, orchards and beech woods, cut by small valleys and dotted with villages. Muncelul Chiuieștiului is one of the hilltops above the village of Chiuiești, and the name is listed among archaeological sites of the Roman frontier in Dacia, which in this region ran along the hills to protect the province from the free Dacians and other peoples to the north. What exactly stood on this hilltop is something to learn from the local signs rather than assume; much of the frontier here consisted of small watchtowers and earthworks that left only faint traces.
The landscape is the real draw. This is a quiet corner of Transylvania, far from the tourist routes, where traditional village life continues. Haymaking is still done by hand on the steep slopes, and wooden churches and old farmhouses can be found in the villages. The Someș valley, to the south, is broader and more developed, with the town of Dej, known for its salt mines and its Gothic Reformed church.
The riding is relaxed and rural. Minor roads wind through the hills between villages, with plenty of bends and gradient changes, but surfaces vary from good asphalt to broken tarmac and gravel. Traffic is light, but expect horse carts, cattle and village dogs. The views from the hilltops across the valleys are wide and peaceful. Spring brings fresh green and wildflowers, summer is warm, and autumn colours in the beech woods are lovely. Rain can make unpaved sections muddy.
Chiuiești and the neighbouring villages have small shops, but fuel is best found in Dej, fifteen kilometres away, a town of thirty-eight thousand with all services. The salt mine at Ocna Dej, and the larger and more famous one at Turda further south, are interesting visits. Village guesthouses offer traditional food: sarmale, ciorbă, cheese and homemade pălincă. In the evening, the sound of church bells drifts across the valleys, and the light on the hills is soft and golden.