CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
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Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
A 487 km round trip from Kalinovik - roughly 12 h 27 in the saddle. On the way it passes Dolovi in the village of Umoljani, Kalufi in Krekovi, Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar and Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,300 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It suits an unhurried touring pace.
Čengića Bara is a high pasture on the plateau around Kalinovik, in the mountainous heart of eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it is one of the most remote of the stećci sites listed by UNESCO in 2016. A group of medieval tombstones stands in the open grassland, carved with simple decorations, weathered by centuries of wind, snow and sun. Few visitors make it here, and that is part of the appeal. The stones seem to belong to the landscape itself, as much as the rocks and the grass around them.
Read the complete Čengića Bara write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Čengića Bara is where the day begins. Next is Dolovi in the village of Umoljani.
Umoljani clings to the edge of the Bjelašnica massif above the Rakitnica canyon, an hour or so southwest of Sarajevo by road, and it is one of those mountain villages that feel a world away from the cities below. Stone houses with steep roofs, a small mosque and a scattering of shepherds' huts sit on a high green plateau, and nearby, at a spot known as Dolovi, a group of medieval tombstones called stećci lies in the grass. These carved limestone monuments, made between roughly the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, are found across Bosnia and neighbouring countries and were inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2016. Their reliefs of hunters, dancers, spirals and crescent moons are a fascinating window onto a culture that left few written records.
Read the complete Dolovi in the village of Umoljani write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Dolovi in the village of Umoljani comes up about 57 km into the recorded legs. Next is Kalufi in Krekovi.
The Nevesinjsko polje is a broad, flat-floored basin high in the karst of eastern Herzegovina, ringed by bare limestone hills, and at Krekovi, near its edge, a group of stećci known as Kalufi stands in the grass. These medieval tombstones, carved between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, belong to the transnational World Heritage Site inscribed in 2016. At Krekovi you find slabs, chests and gabled forms, some decorated with crosses, rosettes and borders, set in rows facing roughly east to west in the old tradition.
Read the complete Kalufi in Krekovi write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 158 km into the recorded legs you reach Kalufi in Krekovi. Next is Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar.
The Old Bridge in Mostar is a single stone arch, slender and impossibly high, leaping across the emerald-green Neretva between two fortified towers. The Ottomans built it in the 1560s, designed by an architect named Mimar Hayruddin, and for more than four centuries it stood as a symbol of the city. On 9 November 1993, during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina, it was shelled and collapsed into the river. It was rebuilt with the original techniques and stone recovered from the riverbed and reopened in 2004, and the following year UNESCO listed the Old Bridge Area as a symbol of reconciliation and cultural coexistence.
Read the complete Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar, about halfway. Next is Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards.
Radimlja, just outside Stolac in Herzegovina, is the finest of the stećak graveyards, and it lies right beside the main road, which makes it one of the easiest pieces of medieval Europe to stop for. Stećci are massive limestone tombstones, shaped like chests, slabs or little gabled houses, carved between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries across the medieval kingdom of Bosnia and neighbouring lands. Many are decorated with reliefs: spirals, vines, crescents, stars, hunting scenes, dancers holding hands, and knights with swords and shields, and one figure at Radimlja raises an oversized right hand in what may be a greeting or a blessing. In 2016 UNESCO listed a group of these graveyards across four countries together.
Read the complete Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards sits at 172 km, about halfway. Next is back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar comes up about 276 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through Kalufi in Krekovi.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Kalufi in Krekovi write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 327 km into the recorded legs you reach back through Kalufi in Krekovi. Next is back through Dolovi in the village of Umoljani.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Dolovi in the village of Umoljani write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Dolovi in the village of Umoljani, late in the day. Next is Čengića Bara.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Čengića Bara write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
The route ends here after 487 km.
Čengića Bara → Dolovi in the village of Umoljani is 57 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Dolovi in the village of Umoljani → Kalufi in Krekovi is 101 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Kalufi in Krekovi → Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar is 51 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar → Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards → back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar is 33 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar → back through Kalufi in Krekovi is 51 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Kalufi in Krekovi → back through Dolovi in the village of Umoljani is 98 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Dolovi in the village of Umoljani → Čengića Bara is 62 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.