Čengića Bara and Dolovi in the village of Umoljani starting at Kalinovik
Plan this ride
Recorded distance
375 km
Riding-time estimate
10 h 10
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
A 375 km round trip from Kalinovik - roughly 10 h 10 in the saddle. The stops in between: Kalufi in Krekovi, Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup, Dolovi in the village of Umoljani and back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,300 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available.
Waypoint introductions and full write-ups
1. Čengića Bara
Čengića Bara is a high pasture on the plateau around Kalinovik, in the mountainous heart of eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it is one of the most remote of the stećci sites listed by UNESCO in 2016. A group of medieval tombstones stands in the open grassland, carved with simple decorations, weathered by centuries of wind, snow and sun. Few visitors make it here, and that is part of the appeal. The stones seem to belong to the landscape itself, as much as the rocks and the grass around them.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Čengića Bara is where the day begins. Next is Kalufi in Krekovi.
2. Kalufi in Krekovi
The Nevesinjsko polje is a broad, flat-floored basin high in the karst of eastern Herzegovina, ringed by bare limestone hills, and at Krekovi, near its edge, a group of stećci known as Kalufi stands in the grass. These medieval tombstones, carved between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, belong to the transnational World Heritage Site inscribed in 2016. At Krekovi you find slabs, chests and gabled forms, some decorated with crosses, rosettes and borders, set in rows facing roughly east to west in the old tradition.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Kalufi in Krekovi comes up about 47 km into the recorded legs. Next is Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup.
3. Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
The Greek hillock, Grčka glavica, is a misleading name: the medieval tombstones that crown it have nothing to do with Greece. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, folk tradition often credited the stećci, the great carved medieval tombstones of the region, to Greeks, giants or other mysterious ancestors, and the names have stuck. The necropolis near the village of Biskup, in the hills south of Konjic, is a group of these stones, some decorated with reliefs of crosses, rosettes, hunting scenes or figures, and it is one of the sites in the UNESCO listing of stećci medieval tombstone graveyards, listed in 2016.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 142 km into the recorded legs you reach Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup. Next is Dolovi in the village of Umoljani.
4. Dolovi in the village of Umoljani
Umoljani clings to the edge of the Bjelašnica massif above the Rakitnica canyon, an hour or so southwest of Sarajevo by road, and it is one of those mountain villages that feel a world away from the cities below. Stone houses with steep roofs, a small mosque and a scattering of shepherds' huts sit on a high green plateau, and nearby, at a spot known as Dolovi, a group of medieval tombstones called stećci lies in the grass. These carved limestone monuments, made between roughly the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, are found across Bosnia and neighbouring countries and were inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2016. Their reliefs of hunters, dancers, spirals and crescent moons are a fascinating window onto a culture that left few written records.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Čengića Bara closes the day.
Leg by leg
Čengića Bara to Kalufi in Krekovi
Čengića Bara → Kalufi in Krekovi is 47 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Kalufi in Krekovi to Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
Kalufi in Krekovi → Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup is 95 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup to Dolovi in the village of Umoljani
Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup → Dolovi in the village of Umoljani is 44 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Dolovi in the village of Umoljani to back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup
Dolovi in the village of Umoljani → back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup is 45 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup to back through Kalufi in Krekovi
back through Grčka glavica in the village of Biskup → back through Kalufi in Krekovi is 97 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Kalufi in Krekovi to Čengića Bara
back through Kalufi in Krekovi → Čengića Bara is 48 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.