Umoljani clings to the edge of the Bjelašnica massif above the Rakitnica canyon, an hour or so southwest of Sarajevo by road, and it is one of those mountain villages that feel a world away from the cities below. Stone houses with steep roofs, a small mosque and a scattering of shepherds' huts sit on a high green plateau, and nearby, at a spot known as Dolovi, a group of medieval tombstones called stećci lies in the grass. These carved limestone monuments, made between roughly the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, are found across Bosnia and neighbouring countries and were inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2016. Their reliefs of hunters, dancers, spirals and crescent moons are a fascinating window onto a culture that left few written records.
The landscape is the real star. Bjelašnica rises behind the village, a broad limestone mountain that hosted Olympic events in 1984, and the Rakitnica canyon cuts a deep, sheer gash through the plateau to the south. In summer the meadows are full of wildflowers and grazing sheep, and shepherds still bring their flocks up to these pastures, living in simple huts. In winter, snow often cuts the village off. Lukomir, the highest permanently inhabited village in Bosnia, lies further along the plateau and is often combined with Umoljani on a mountain loop.
Getting here is half the adventure. From the Sarajevo side, the road climbs past the Bjelašnica ski area and then narrows into a mountain lane with tight hairpins, steep gradients and sections of rough asphalt and gravel. It is entirely doable on a road bike with care, but an adventure or dual-sport machine will feel more at home on the rougher bits, especially after rain. Watch for livestock, deep potholes, and loose stones on the bends, and be aware that landmine warnings still exist in some remote areas of Bosnia, so stick to roads and marked paths.
Nobody sells petrol on the plateau. Fill the tank in Hadžići or the outskirts of Sarajevo before you start the climb, and bring water and snacks. In summer, some families in Umoljani offer simple food, such as pies, cheese and kajmak, but do not count on it. Park near the village, walk to the stećci, and listen to the wind across the high pastures. It is a remarkable place, and the ride back down, with the light falling across the canyon, will stay with you.