Rust, soot and colossal machinery: the Völklingen Ironworks is a cathedral of heavy industry, and walking through it is an overwhelming experience. Founded in 1873 and developed by the Röchling family into one of the largest iron producers in Europe, the works produced pig iron from 1883 until 1986, when the blast furnaces were shut down. Instead of being demolished, the complex was preserved, and in 1994 it became the first industrial monument from the heyday of heavy industry to be listed by UNESCO. Today visitors can climb the blast furnaces, walk through the huge blowing engine hall, and explore the coking plant and the ore storage, much of which has been taken over by nature, with birch trees and wild plants growing among the steel.
The history of the ironworks is not only one of technical achievement. During both world wars, the works relied on forced labour, including prisoners of war and civilians from occupied countries, and the conditions were brutal. The site does not hide this history, and exhibitions explain it alongside the story of the workers, the technology and the region. The ironworks also hosts art exhibitions and cultural events, and the illuminated blast furnaces at night are a striking sight.
The Saarland is a small region with a complex history, passed back and forth between France and Germany, and its culture reflects both. The riding is surprisingly good, with rolling hills, forests and river valleys, and quiet roads away from the industrial towns. The highlight is the Saarschleife, near Mettlach, where the river Saar makes a dramatic hairpin bend through a wooded gorge, best seen from the viewpoint at Cloef, where a treetop walkway offers a view over the loop. The roads along the Saar and into the hills of the Hunsrück to the north are winding and scenic, with good surfaces and little traffic.
Völklingen, a town of about forty thousand people, has fuel, shops and restaurants. Saarbrücken, the capital of the Saarland, is a short ride away, and France is just across the river. The local food is hearty, with Dibbelabbes, a potato dish cooked with bacon and leeks, and Lyoner sausage, and the local beers are good. The weather is mild, with warm summers and cool, damp winters, and fog can settle in the river valleys in autumn.