Tel Beer Sheba is a mound on the edge of the modern city of Beersheba, in the northern Negev desert of southern Israel, and it holds the remains of an Iron Age town that has been excavated and partially reconstructed. With Megiddo and Hazor, it forms the UNESCO site of the Biblical Tels, recognized for their importance in understanding the cities of the biblical era. The name Beersheba appears many times in the Bible, associated with Abraham and the wells he dug in the desert.
The site is fascinating for its planning. The town was laid out with a ring road and streets radiating from the gate, houses built against the walls, and storehouses near the entrance. Its water system, a deep shaft and cisterns cut into the rock, shows how the inhabitants survived in a dry land. A large horned altar, found dismantled and reused in the walls, has been reconstructed, and a copy stands on the site. From the top, there is a view over the desert and the modern city, and an observation tower gives a wider panorama.
The Negev is a land of open spaces and long roads. Beersheba is the gateway to the desert, and from here roads run south to Mitzpe Ramon and the Ramon crater, east towards the Dead Sea and Masada, and west towards the coast. The desert roads are generally well surfaced and straight, with long views, but heat is serious from May to October, often above thirty-five degrees, so start early and carry plenty of water. Sandstorms can reduce visibility, and wind can be strong. Before travelling, check current security advice for the region, which can change quickly.
Beersheba, five kilometres away, is a large city with fuel and all services, and its old Ottoman quarter has some interesting buildings. The Bedouin market, traditionally held on Thursdays, was once a famous sight, though it has changed over the years. The area around the tel includes a Bedouin town, Tel Sheva. In the evening, the desert light turns gold and the heat begins to ease, and the stones of the ancient town glow in the setting sun.