Sharpeville is a heavy place, and it should be approached quietly. On 21 March 1960, thousands of people gathered outside the police station to protest against the pass laws, which forced Black South Africans to carry documents controlling where they could live and work. The police opened fire on the crowd, and sixty-nine people were killed, many shot in the back as they fled. The massacre shocked the world, led to the banning of liberation movements in South Africa and hardened international opposition to apartheid.
The police station still stands, and the Sharpeville precinct now includes a memorial, a human rights exhibition and the graves of victims, all part of a heritage route. In 1996, Nelson Mandela signed South Africa's new constitution into law in Sharpeville, a choice that carried deliberate meaning. The sites were included in UNESCO's listing of places associated with Mandela's legacy, and 21 March is now a public holiday known as Human Rights Day.
The place lies on the southern edge of Gauteng, beside the twin cities of Vereeniging and Vanderbijlpark, where the Vaal river runs and heavy industry spreads for miles. Riding here means highways, trucks and urban traffic. The N1 and the roads from Johannesburg are fast and busy, and local roads can have potholes. Fuel, food and everything else you need are easy to find in Vanderbijlpark and Vereeniging, both close and large.
Be careful and sensible, as you would in any big South African city. Park where you can see the bike, travel in daylight, and consider going with a local guide, who can explain the story and open doors that would otherwise stay closed. Winter days are dry and clear, with cold mornings, while summer brings afternoon thunderstorms. Visit in a respectful frame of mind, take your helmet off, and give yourself time to read the names. This is not a stop for a quick photo.