You come up out of the Seolleung subway station into the glass towers of Gangnam, and a few minutes later you are standing in a pine grove with royal tombs. The Seolleung cluster holds the burial mounds of King Seongjong, who died in the fifteenth century, and his queen, together with the tomb of King Jungjong, a later ruler, at a short distance. The park, surrounded by office blocks and busy roads, has the stillness of a place that has been left alone for five hundred years, and it is one of the most surprising pieces of silence in the city.
The tombs belong to the Joseon dynasty, which ruled Korea from 1392 to 1910 and placed a great deal of importance on correct burial and ancestor rites. Each tomb follows the same pattern: a round grass mound, protected by stone sheep and tigers, with a stone lantern, scholar and military figures standing guard, and a T-shaped shrine with a red gate, where rites were performed. The 40 royal tombs of Joseon were listed by UNESCO in 2009, and many are inside Seoul or just outside it. Nearby, the Buddhist temple of Bongeunsa is another surprise among the high-rises.
The ride is a different matter. Central Seoul is a dense, fast and demanding city, with multi-lane roads, constant traffic, couriers on scooters weaving between cars and heavy speed enforcement with cameras. Riding in the city is not relaxing, and the best advice is to park near the park and walk. Early morning and Sunday are quieter. If you want proper riding, the roads east of Seoul along the Han river and into the hills of Gyeonggi province are much more enjoyable.
Gangnam has everything: fuel stations, convenience stores open all night, coffee shops by the thousand and Korean barbecue restaurants on every side street. The tomb park charges a small entrance fee and generally closes one day a week, so check the day before you go. Visit in autumn, when the maples and ginkgo turn and the mounds are ringed in gold.