Five thousand years ago, in the fertile Zeravshan valley of what is now north-western Tajikistan, people built a settlement of mud-brick houses, temples and workshops that became one of the earliest towns in Central Asia. Sarazm, near Panjakent and right next to the Uzbek border, was a centre of metal working, trading copper, tin and turquoise with places as far away as Iran, Afghanistan and India. Inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2010, the site has revealed burials with jewellery, including the richly adorned grave of a woman known as the Princess of Sarazm.
The excavated areas are protected under shelters, and a small museum displays some finds. The valley around is green and fertile, with orchards, vineyards and fields, framed by the Zeravshan and Turkestan mountains. In late spring the apricot and mulberry trees are heavy with fruit, and children sell it by the roadside in plastic bags.
Panjakent, thirteen kilometres away, is the main town of the area, with fuel, a lively bazaar, and simple hotels and restaurants. On the edge of town lie the ruins of ancient Panjakent, a Sogdian city of the fifth to eighth centuries, with remains of houses, temples and a citadel. Its wall paintings, now mostly in the Hermitage in St Petersburg and the Rudaki museum in Panjakent, show scenes of Sogdian life, myth and religion. The poet Rudaki, considered the father of Persian poetry, is buried nearby.
The Fann mountains, south of Panjakent, are one of the most beautiful ranges in Central Asia, with turquoise lakes, including the Seven Lakes, Haft Kul, reached by a rough road up the Shing valley. The roads are mostly unpaved and challenging, with steep climbs and river crossings. The main road east to Ayni and Dushanbe follows the Zeravshan valley, with tunnels and mountain passes. Spring and autumn are ideal, while summer can be hot in the valley. Carry cash, a good map and extra fuel for mountain excursions.