South of Luoyang, the river Yi cuts through a narrow gap between two limestone hills, and for about a kilometre the cliffs on both sides are honeycombed with caves, niches and carvings. Over around four centuries, starting in the late fifth century under the Northern Wei dynasty and continuing through the Tang, Buddhist sculptors carved tens of thousands of statues into the rock, from tiny figures a few centimetres high to colossal Buddhas. The Longmen Grottoes were listed by UNESCO in 2000 and are among the finest examples of Chinese Buddhist art.
The highlight is the Fengxian Temple, an open-air group of giant figures cut into the western cliff in the Tang period. At its centre sits a huge Vairocana Buddha, serene and majestic, flanked by disciples, bodhisattvas and fierce guardians. Tradition holds that its face was modelled on the Empress Wu Zetian, the only woman to rule China in her own name, who supported the project. Many smaller statues are missing heads, removed by looters and collectors in the early twentieth century, and some are now in museums abroad.
Luoyang was one of the great capitals of ancient China, and it is famous today for its peonies, which bloom in April during a large festival. The city's water banquet, a meal of many soups and stews served in succession, is a local tradition. A couple of hours east, on the slopes of Song Shan, stands the Shaolin Temple, birthplace of Zen Buddhism in China and of its famous martial arts.
On the practical side, getting around on two wheels is the hard part. Foreigners usually need a Chinese licence or a special permit to ride, motorbikes are banned from expressways, and many cities restrict their use in central areas. Most visitors reach Longmen by bus, taxi or high-speed train to Luoyang. Traffic in the city is dense and chaotic, with electric scooters weaving silently around you.
The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon, when the light falls on the carvings and the crowds are thinner; in the evening, the cliffs are lit up, reflected in the river. Fuel, food and every service are available in Luoyang. Try a bowl of spicy beef soup with flatbread, a local breakfast favourite.