Leh sits in the high desert of Ladakh at about 3,500 metres, in the broad valley of the Indus, with the Karakoram on one side and the Zanskar range on the other, and it is the end of the Manali-Leh highway, one of the great road journeys in the world. The last stage of that road is the best: you cross the Tanglang La, among the highest passes in the world, then drop to the Indus plain, through villages with whitewashed chortens and prayer flags, and the town appears below a hill crowned by the old Leh Palace, a nine-storey building of mud and wood modelled on the Potala in Lhasa. Behind it, the Namgyal Tsemo monastery and a ruined fort hang on the ridge.
Leh was a major stop on the caravan routes between India, Tibet and Central Asia, where traders brought pashmina, salt, silk and spices over the passes. The Buddhist heritage is strong and visible: the Shanti Stupa, built by Japanese monks, gives a grand view over the town, and monasteries such as Thiksey and Hemis stand within a day's ride, painted with bright murals. The old town below the palace has narrow lanes, and the main bazaar is full of Kashmiri and Tibetan craftwork.
The key to Leh is altitude, and it deserves respect. Spend at least two days there doing nothing before you ride higher, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol on the first night and take headaches seriously, since acute mountain sickness can become dangerous. The sun is fierce, the air is thin and dry, and the nights are cold even in summer. For riders the roads to Khardung La, to Pangong Lake and to the Nubra Valley all start from here, and some of them need an Inner Line Permit, which can be arranged through a local agency or online. The riding season runs roughly from June to September, when the high roads are open, though landslides and snow can close them at any time.
The town has about thirty-seven thousand people, so fuel, mechanics, tyres and food are all available, but remember that the stations beyond Leh, in the Nubra and Pangong directions, are far apart, so carry a jerrycan for long days. Try thukpa, the noodle soup, momos and butter tea, and the apricots that grow in the valleys. Bakeries sell German-style cakes, a legacy of trekkers, and cafes on the main street have good coffee and views of the palace.