Between the coastal town of Llanes and the high limestone walls of the Picos de Europa, a small cave near Carreña de Cabrales holds images that have been in the dark for something like fifteen thousand years. Covaciella was only found in the 1990s, and its paintings of bison, horses and deer, in black and red, are among the finest examples of Palaeolithic art in Asturias. It was added to the UNESCO listing of the Cave of Altamira and Paleolithic Cave Art of Northern Spain in 2008. The cave is closed to the public to protect the paintings, but the nearby interpretation centre explains what is inside and why it matters.
The village of Carreña and the surrounding Cabrales valley are best known for something else: Cabrales cheese, a powerful blue cheese made from cow's, sheep's and goat's milk and matured in natural limestone caves in the mountains. You can visit a cheese cave in Arenas de Cabrales to see how it is made and taste it. The valley is also the gateway to the Picos de Europa National Park, with the iconic Naranjo de Bulnes, Picu Urriellu to the locals, and the spectacular Cares gorge trail.
The riding is fantastic. The road from Cangas de Onís to Panes runs along the Sella, Casaño and Cares rivers through deep valleys, with sharp curves, short straights and the mountains towering above you. It is one of the best motorcycle routes in Spain, though busy with tourists and caravans in summer. The weather in Asturias is changeable, with rain, fog and sunshine all in one day, and the roads can be wet and slippery in the shaded sections. Late spring and early autumn are the best times to ride, with fewer crowds and green landscapes.
Llanes, fifteen kilometres away, is a lively fishing town with fuel, shops and plenty of restaurants. Smaller villages in the valley have bars and inns. Try fabada asturiana, a bean stew with chorizo and black pudding, or cachopo, two breaded veal fillets stuffed with ham and cheese, and wash it down with sidra, the local cider, poured from a great height to aerate it.