Jebel Hafit rises out of the flat gravel desert near Al Ain like a lizard's back, a bare, folded limestone ridge about twelve hundred metres high that marks the border between the United Arab Emirates and Oman. It is the best-known landmark in the area, and the scatter of ancient sites around it tells the story of the people who lived here. On the lower slopes are about five thousand years old beehive-shaped stone tombs, the first examples of a type of grave that is now named after the mountain, and the Hafit period is a recognised phase of Bronze Age archaeology in south-east Arabia.
Bidaa Bint Saud is part of the group of cultural sites around Al Ain that UNESCO listed in 2011, together with Hili, the Hafit tombs and the oases of the district. The area is known for aflaj, the underground and surface irrigation channels that carry water from the mountains to the date palm gardens, an engineering system with a history of thousands of years. The oases of Al Ain are still green, shady and cool, with date palms, mud-brick walls and shaded paths, and they feel a long way from the glass towers of Dubai.
For riders, the great attraction is the Jebel Hafit mountain road, a ribbon of smooth asphalt that climbs from the plain to a summit viewpoint with many hairpin bends, wide open bends and big views over the desert. It is one of the best-known motorcycle roads in the Gulf, and it gets crowded in the evenings and at weekends, so be careful with speed and watch for sand on the surface, especially after wind. In summer, the heat is extreme, often above forty-five degrees, so the best months are November to March, and the best hours are early morning and sunset.
Al Ain, across the border from the town of Al Buraymi in Oman, has fuel, which is cheap by European standards, and food of every kind. Al Jahili Fort, built in the 1890s, is worth a visit, and the camel market gives a glimpse of an older way of life. If you cross the border to Oman, have your documents and insurance in order, because the checks can be strict, and bring a pocketful of patience as well as water.