The hills south-east of Nijmegen have a second history that has nothing to do with Rome. On Sunday 17 September 1944, thousands of American paratroopers of the 82nd Airborne Division landed on the heath and fields around Groesbeek, as part of Operation Market Garden, to seize the high ground and the bridges over the Maas and Waal. They succeeded in many things, but the push to Arnhem failed, and the front line stayed near here through a bitter winter. Nijmegen was liberated only partially, and fighting went on across the Reichswald forest just over the German border until the spring of 1945. The National Liberation Museum in Groesbeek tells the story, and the Canadian War Cemetery, with over two thousand graves, set among beeches, is one of the most moving places in the area.
The Marienboom section of the Berg en Dal aqueduct, though, is Roman. The aqueduct that fed the legionary fortress ran along the foot of these hills, and this part of the route belongs to the group listed by UNESCO as the Lower German Limes. It is easy to see how the two histories overlap here: the high ground with its water and its view has been valuable to every army for two thousand years.
For a rider the area is an attractive mix of heath, woodland and low hills, with quiet roads and fewer cyclists than the city. The Groesbeek forest and the Mook heath are good for relaxed touring, and the road along the ridge gives views over the Maas and the German border. Speed limits are low, and police do check them.
Fuel is not available in the villages, so fill up in Nijmegen or Groesbeek. There are cafes and small restaurants in the larger villages, and the local speciality is the pancake, which comes in dozens of varieties.
Spring brings wild flowers to the heath, and the autumn colours are good in the beech woods. Winter fog is common, and the days are short. If you visit in September, you may catch ceremonies marking the anniversary of the landings.