1. Andermatt base check
Andermatt sits in a high, flat valley called the Urseren, at 1,444 metres, where four of the great Swiss passes meet. The Gotthard heads south to Ticino, the Oberalp runs east toward Graubünden, the Furka climbs west to the Valais, and the road north follows the Reuss down through a gorge to Lake Lucerne. People have crossed here for at least eight hundred years, ever since the Devil's Bridge was thrown across the gorge to make the Gotthard route practical, and the village has served travellers and soldiers ever since.
Read the complete Andermatt base reset write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Andermatt base check is where the day begins. Reckon on about 8 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Gotthard Tremola cobbled road, climbing 662 m.
2. Gotthard Tremola cobbled road
Long before anyone dreamed of a tunnel, the Gotthard was a rumour of a route: a way through the central Alps that, once the Devil's Bridge was thrown across the gorge of the Schöllenen in the thirteenth century, turned a remote valley into the shortest link between northern Europe and Italy. Merchants, pilgrims, soldiers and mule trains all used it, and the hospice at the top gave them a bed. The Tremola, the cobbled stair on the southern side, is the nineteenth-century answer to the same problem.
Read the complete Gotthard Tremola cobbled road write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
You top out at 2106 m here. The road climbs 662 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 12 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. At this height the road is a summer one: snow gates can stay shut into June and shut again in October. Next is Airolo fuel stop, mostly downhill.
3. Airolo fuel stop
Airolo sits at the southern mouth of the Gotthard, the point where northern and southern Europe seem to hand over to each other in a single valley. At 1,175 metres it is a small town of about fifteen hundred people, and the first sign of Italian Switzerland if you come from Andermatt: the roofs turn to stone, the stucco gets warmer, and the language changes to Italian. It has fuel, cafes, a couple of bakeries and a railway station, and it is a natural place to start or finish a day among the passes.
Read the complete Airolo write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Fill up here — 475 km left and no pump marked after this. You lose 931 m on the way down to it, steadily. Reckon on about 6 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Lago Maggiore evening base, mostly downhill.
4. Lago Maggiore evening base
Locarno sits at the northern tip of Lake Maggiore, at about two hundred metres above sea level, and the lake itself, at roughly a hundred and ninety metres, is the lowest point in Switzerland. The effect is that the air feels soft and mild, even in winter, and palm trees, camellias and magnolias grow along the promenade, a startling sight for anyone who has just ridden down from the snow of the Gotthard. Ticino is Swiss, but it is also Italian in its language, its food and its pace, and the evening here has a distinctly Mediterranean rhythm.
Read the complete Lago Maggiore evening base write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Lago Maggiore evening base, early in the day at 200 m. You lose 975 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Lukmanier return option, climbing 1715 m.
5. Lukmanier return option
Lukmanier is the quiet sister of the great Gotthard, and for most of its history it was the more important of the two. At 1,915 metres it links Disentis in Graubünden with the Blenio valley in Ticino, and Romans, monks and emperors used it long before the Gotthard became practical. For a rider looking for an easy way back toward the north or south, it offers a long, calm descent without the cobbles and queues.
Read the complete Lukmanier return option write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Lukmanier return option tops the climb at 1915 m. The road climbs 1715 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 11 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. High enough to hold ice in the shaded corners early and late in the year. Next is Back to Andermatt, mostly downhill.
6. Back to Andermatt
Andermatt sits at 1,444 metres in the Urseren valley, a high, wide, treeless hollow in the heart of the Swiss Alps, and it has been a crossroads for centuries. Three great passes meet here: the Gotthard, which runs south to Italy and Ticino at 2,106 metres, the Furka, which climbs west over 2,429 metres toward the Valais, and the Oberalp, which leads east at 2,044 metres into Graubünden. For a motorcyclist it is a kind of Mecca, since the three roads are among the most famous in the Alps, and the town fills with bikes on any fine summer weekend.
Read the complete Andermatt write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 404 km. You lose 471 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Andermatt overnight option.
7. Andermatt overnight option
Andermatt is a mountain village at about fourteen hundred metres, in the Urseren valley, a high, wide, treeless basin where several of the great alpine passes meet. The Gotthard heads south to Ticino, the Furka goes west to the Valais, and the Oberalp leads east to Graubünden, and the village sits at the crossing, like a small hub at the centre of a big wheel. The source of the Reuss river is just above, and the water flows north through the dramatic Schöllenen gorge, where the Teufelsbrücke, the Devil's Bridge, crosses the torrent in a spray of mist.
Read the complete Andermatt overnight option write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
about 244 km into the recorded legs you reach Andermatt overnight option. Next is Furka glacier road, climbing 985 m.
8. Furka glacier road
The Furka is the pass where you can ride up to a glacier and see the beginning of a river, and few roads in Europe offer that. At 2,429 metres it links Realp in Uri with Gletsch and Oberwald in the Valais, and on the Valais side the road passes right beside the Rhône glacier, whose grey ice tongue spills from the high snowfields above the Belvédère hotel. A trickle of milky meltwater at its foot is the source of the Rhône, which will travel through Lake Geneva and across France to the Mediterranean.
Read the complete Furka glacier road write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
2429 m, and the road stops climbing. The road climbs 985 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 14 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Nothing on this route is higher. Next is Gletsch historic junction, mostly downhill.
9. Gletsch historic junction
At Gletsch, the Rhône is still a young stream, trickling from the foot of a glacier that once filled the whole basin. The hamlet sits at about seventeen hundred and sixty metres, in a bleak, beautiful hollow where two of Switzerland's great passes diverge: the Furka heads east toward Andermatt, and the Grimsel runs north to Meiringen, while the Rhône valley falls away to the south-west. A grand old hotel from the nineteenth century stands at the junction, its pale façade looking oddly large against the bare mountains, and for a few months each year it is the only sign of human life for miles.
Read the complete Gletsch historic junction write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Gletsch historic junction sits at 423 km, late in the day. You lose 670 m on the way down to it, steadily. Reckon on about 10 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Grimsel reservoirs, climbing 405 m.
10. Grimsel reservoirs
The Grimsel looks like a landscape that nature made, but most of what you see was made by engineers. The three big lakes around the pass, the Grimselsee, the Räterichsbodensee and the Oberaarsee, hold water that spins turbines in power stations deep inside the mountain, and the dams that hold them in place were built from the 1920s onward by men working at altitude through harsh winters. The Spitallamm, a curved wall of concrete, closes the Grimselsee, and the road runs along its crest.
Read the complete Grimsel reservoirs write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Grimsel reservoirs tops the climb at 2164 m. The road climbs 405 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 13 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Brig food and fuel, mostly downhill.
11. Brig food and fuel
Brig is a town that has always lived off other people's journeys. It sits in the upper Rhône valley in the Valais, at the northern foot of the Simplon, and for centuries merchants hauling goods over the pass to Italy needed somewhere to rest, change animals and pay their bills. One of them, a seventeenth-century trader named Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper, grew so rich on salt, mining and transport that he built the palace that still dominates the town, with three towers topped by gilded domes. It is among the grandest private houses in the Alps, and a short walk from the station.
Read the complete Brig food and fuel write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
A break here. You lose 1473 m on the way down to it, steadily. Reckon on about 3 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Back to Andermatt, climbing 753 m.
12. Back to Andermatt
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Andermatt write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Back to Andermatt closes the day. The road climbs 753 m over at least 59 km before it, steadily.