1. Altdorf fuel gate
Altdorf is the capital of the canton of Uri, a small town at the head of Lake Lucerne's southern arm where the Reuss river leaves the mountains and the Gotthard route begins. It is a practical, low-key place, flat and sheltered, with a pretty centre and a roar of traffic nearby from the motorway, and it is the sort of town where riders refill the tank, buy a coffee and look up at the wall of peaks above.
Read the complete Altdorf fuel gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Altdorf is where the day begins. Next is Sustenpass west ramp, climbing 1766 m.
2. Sustenpass west ramp
The west ramp of the Sustenpass starts in the Haslital near Innertkirchen and climbs through the Gadmertal, a deep, quiet, wooded valley that most day-trippers never see. Fuel is down in the valley at Innertkirchen or Meiringen, and the nearest big town is Altdorf, well over twenty kilometres away, so fill up before you go.
Read the complete Sustenpass west ramp write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
You top out at 2224 m here. The road climbs 1766 m on the way up to it, hard. Reckon on about 11 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. At this height the road is a summer one: snow gates can stay shut into June and shut again in October. Next is Innertkirchen, mostly downhill.
3. Innertkirchen food reset
Innertkirchen sits at 625 metres where the Haslital opens out, and in practice it is a junction. Two famous passes start here, the Grimsel climbing southeast toward the Rhône glacier and the Susten rising east toward the Reuss valley, and the roads divide at the edge of the village. The Aare river runs through, fresh from the glaciers, and just downstream the Aare Gorge cuts a narrow slot of polished limestone that can be walked on timber galleries. The valley is also the heart of the Oberhasli hydropower scheme, with turbines and tunnels bored deep inside the mountains, which explains the large grey buildings you pass.
Read the complete Innertkirchen write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
A break here. You lose 1599 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Grimselpass reservoirs, climbing 1539 m.
4. Grimselpass reservoirs
The Grimsel is one of the great Alpine passes, and it is also one of the least wild. At 2,164 metres it joins the Bernese Oberland and the upper Valais, and the landscape it crosses is a bare, glaciated bowl of grey granite, scoured smooth by ice and then dammed by engineers. There are three reservoirs in the immediate area, and the water in them is a startling turquoise or slate depending on the sky.
Read the complete Grimselpass reservoirs write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The high point of this section, 2164 m up. The road climbs 1539 m on the way up to it, steadily. Next is Furkapass glacier road, climbing 265 m.
5. Furkapass glacier road
Furka is the pass everybody has seen without knowing it: the Goldfinger car chase of 1964 was filmed on these hairpins, and the hotel at the Rhône glacier still trades on the association. At 2,429 metres it is the highest pass of the classic Swiss trio, linking Uri to the canton of Valais through the Urseren valley and down to Gletsch.
Read the complete Furkapass glacier road write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Furkapass glacier road tops the climb at 2429 m. The road climbs 265 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 13 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Realp descent, mostly downhill.
6. Realp descent fuel check
Realp is the last village on the Urseren valley road before the Furka, a hamlet at about fifteen hundred metres that most people ride through without stopping. That would be a mistake, because the railway station here is the starting point of the Furka cogwheel steam railway, a heritage line run by volunteers, which was rebuilt from abandoned track after the original was closed in 1981. Steam locomotives climb to Oberwald by way of the old mountain route in summer, and even if you do not ride the train, the sight and smell of the engines in the station yard make a decent coffee stop.
Read the complete Realp descent fuel check write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Realp descent is the fuel stop for this leg. You lose 891 m on the way down to it, steadily. Reckon on about 7 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Back to Altdorf, mostly downhill.
7. Back to Altdorf
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Altdorf fuel gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Back to Altdorf closes the day. You lose 1080 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Andermatt base check, climbing 986 m.
8. Andermatt base check
Andermatt sits in a high, flat valley called the Urseren, at 1,444 metres, where four of the great Swiss passes meet. The Gotthard heads south to Ticino, the Oberalp runs east toward Graubünden, the Furka climbs west to the Valais, and the road north follows the Reuss down through a gorge to Lake Lucerne. People have crossed here for at least eight hundred years, ever since the Devil's Bridge was thrown across the gorge to make the Gotthard route practical, and the village has served travellers and soldiers ever since.
Read the complete Andermatt base reset write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
You start here, at 1444 m. The road climbs 986 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 6 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Gotthard Tremola cobbles, climbing 662 m.
9. Gotthard Tremola cobbles
The Tremola is the old road over the Gotthard, and riding it is a bit like walking into a museum that is still in use. It climbs from Airolo on the Ticino side up to the pass at 2,106 metres in a staircase of tight hairpins, all of them paved with granite cobbles, laid by hand in the nineteenth century and restored in recent decades. The tarmac road runs alongside for those who prefer it, but the cobbles are the point.
Read the complete Gotthard Tremola cobbles write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The high point of this section, 2106 m up. The road climbs 662 m on the way up to it, steadily. Next is Airolo fuel and water, mostly downhill.
10. Airolo fuel and water
Airolo is a small town with a big job. It sits at 1,175 metres at the southern end of the Gotthard, where the Leventina valley begins, and for centuries anyone coming south from the pass has funnelled through it. Today much of that traffic disappears underground: the railway tunnel, opened in 1882, and the road tunnel, opened in 1980, both come out near here, and the village is the place where the north-south corridor changes from German to Italian speech, from larch to chestnut.
Read the complete Airolo fuel and water write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Airolo fuel and water is the fuel stop for this leg. You lose 931 m on the way down to it, steadily. Reckon on about 5 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Nufenenpass high point, climbing 1303 m.
11. Nufenenpass high point
The Nufenen is the highest pass entirely within Switzerland, at 2,478 metres, and it earns the superlative with a bleak, windswept summit that feels more like the moon than the Alps. There is no pretty village at the top, no hotel, only a small car park, a few marker stones and a wide view of bare rock and snow patches. The pass links the Goms in the Valais with the Val Bedretto in Ticino, joining Ulrichen and Airolo, and it was built only in the 1960s, which makes it one of the youngest major roads in the Alps.
Read the complete Nufenenpass high point write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Nufenenpass high point is the summit of this stretch at 2478 m. The road climbs 1303 m on the way up to it, steadily. Nothing on this route is higher. Next is Furka west ramp.
12. Furka west ramp
The western approach to the Furka starts in the Goms and ends on the shoulder of one of the most famous glaciers in the Alps. At 2,429 metres the pass joins the Valais and Uri, and on this side the road climbs from the hamlet of Gletsch, where the Rhône begins its journey, through a staircase of hairpins that give increasingly grand views of the ice behind.
Read the complete Furka west ramp write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
You top out at 2429 m here. Next is Realp descent check, mostly downhill.
13. Realp descent check
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Realp descent fuel check write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Realp descent check sits at 450 km, late in the day. Next is back to Andermatt base check.
14. back to Andermatt base check
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Andermatt base reset write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Finish at back to Andermatt base check. That is the ride.