1. Chur fuel and status gate
Chur likes to say that it is the oldest town in Switzerland, and the evidence is on its side. People have lived on this spot, where the Plessur river meets the Rhine valley, for around five thousand years, and the Romans put a settlement here, and a bishop's seat followed in late antiquity. Today the city, with about thirty-two thousand people, is the capital of Graubünden, the biggest canton in the country, and the gateway to the great passes and valleys of the east.
Read the complete Chur fuel and status gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Chur fuel and status is where the day begins. Next is San Bernardino pass road, climbing 1473 m.
2. San Bernardino pass road
Before the tunnel, everyone went over the top. The San Bernardino pass, at 2,066 metres, links the upper Rhine valley of Graubünden with Ticino, and has done for centuries, when mule trains carried goods between the north and the south. Since the opening of the road tunnel in 1967, most traffic goes underneath, and the old road is left for those who prefer the view.
Read the complete San Bernardino pass road write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
You top out at 2066 m here. The road climbs 1473 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 10 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. At this height the road is a summer one: snow gates can stay shut into June and shut again in October. Next is Mesocco, mostly downhill.
3. Mesocco food reset
Mesocco is a valley village of about thirteen hundred people on the southern side of the San Bernardino, in the Misox, the Italian-speaking arm of Graubünden that opens toward Bellinzona and Lake Maggiore. At nearly eight hundred metres it is the last place of any size before the road climbs to the pass, and it is the right place for a breakfast or a late lunch, with a handful of simple restaurants and cafés serving polenta, cheese, local salami and chestnut dishes, and a small stretch of fuel and shops.
Read the complete Mesocco food reset write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
A break here. You lose 1276 m on the way down to it, steadily. Reckon on about 2 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Next is Splügenpass hairpins, climbing 1324 m.
4. Splügenpass hairpins
The Italian side of the Splügen is the one that makes people swear with happiness. From Campodolcino the road climbs the Valle Spluga in a rapid string of tight hairpins, stacked one above another up the valley wall, past waterfalls and a gorge that the old road builders had to blast through. At the top, at about 2,114 metres, you arrive at the border, a modest customs building and the long, cold Lago di Montespluga, held back by a dam and glinting in a bare landscape of grass and stone.
Read the complete Splügenpass hairpins write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The high point of this section, 2114 m up. The road climbs 1324 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 11 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. Nothing on this route is higher. Next is Thusis return, mostly downhill.
5. Thusis return gate
Thusis is a gateway town, and it knows its job well. It sits where the Hinterrhein, the young Rhine, comes out of the gorge of the Viamala and into the wide, orchard-lined valley of the Domleschg, and from here roads and railway lines fan out into the Graubünden mountains: south over the Splügen and San Bernardino passes, east through the Schin gorge toward the Albula and Davos. At about seven hundred metres in altitude, it is a fairly low base for such high terrain, and that makes it a useful place to be at the start of a mountain day.
Read the complete Thusis write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
You lose 1394 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Back to Chur fuel.
6. Back to Chur fuel
At 593 metres, in a wide bend of the Rhine valley, Chur makes a strong claim to be the oldest town in Switzerland, with traces of settlement going back thousands of years and a Roman presence from the first century BC. It has been the seat of a bishop since late antiquity, and the bishop's court, with its cathedral, sits on a terrace above the old town. Down below, the narrow streets and squares of the Altstadt, with painted houses, fountains and arcades, are a pleasant place to wander after a morning in the saddle.
Read the complete Chur write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The route ends here after 678 km. Next is Sargans.
7. Sargans fuel gate
Sargans is a small town doing something unexpectedly big. It sits on a low saddle in the Rhine valley where the river, instead of flowing on west toward Lake Constance as it now does, once could just as easily have turned toward the Walensee and Zurich. The ridge between the two directions is barely a rise in the ground, which is why geographers like to point at Sargans and say the whole river's fate depended on a patch of gravel. Today the Rhine runs north, and the town's modest castle on its rocky knoll watches over the valley and the Liechtenstein hills across the water.
Read the complete Sargans fuel gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Fill up here — 308 km left and no pump marked after this. Next is Bludenz food stop.
8. Bludenz food stop
Bludenz sits at the meeting of several valleys, and that is its whole story. The Walgau runs northwest toward the Rhine, the Klostertal heads east to the Arlberg, the Brandnertal climbs south to the Lünersee, and the Montafon carries the Ill river up to the Silvretta. At 588 metres, the town is a low point in a landscape of high peaks, with the Rätikon walls rising behind the old centre and a compact medieval core of arcades and painted houses. It is an ideal place to begin a ride into the mountains.
Read the complete Bludenz food stop write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Somewhere to get off the bike, about 284 km into the recorded legs. Next is Arlberg return option, climbing 1205 m.
9. Arlberg return option
Anton, where the road begins its climb. It is one of the oldest crossing points in the Eastern Alps, used since the Middle Ages by traders and pilgrims, and the name itself is thought to come from the dwarf pines, the Arlen, that grow on the slopes. A hospice was built on the pass in the fourteenth century to help travellers survive the winter, and the cult of St. Christopher that grew up there is still remembered in the name of the village below.
Read the complete Arlberg return option write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
The high point of this section, 1793 m up. The road climbs 1205 m on the way up to it, steadily. Reckon on about 9 °C colder than the valley, and more in the wind. High enough to hold ice in the shaded corners early and late in the year. Next is Silvretta High Alpine Road, climbing 239 m.
10. Silvretta High Alpine Road
Bielerhöhe is the high point of the Silvretta High Alpine Road, a toll road built in the 1950s to link the Montafon valley in Vorarlberg with the Paznaun valley in Tyrol, and the top at about 2,032 metres sits at the edge of the Silvretta reservoir. The lake, a long, deep blue sheet held back by a dam, is surrounded by bare peaks and small glaciers, and the highest of them, Piz Buin at 3,312 metres, rises to the south beyond the water.
Read the complete Silvretta High Alpine Road write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Silvretta High Alpine Road tops the climb at 2032 m. Next is Montafon overnight base, mostly downhill.
11. Montafon overnight base
Schruns sits at about 650 metres in the Montafon, a long valley in Vorarlberg, Austria's westernmost state, where the river Ill runs south between the Rätikon and the Silvretta ranges. It is a small town of under four thousand people, with a pointed church tower, wooden chalets and a feel of quiet prosperity, and its sister village Tschagguns lies just across the river. In winter the area is busy with skiers, and in summer with hikers and cyclists, but outside the high seasons it is peaceful, and a good place to sleep after a long day in the saddle.
Read the complete Montafon overnight base write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
about 498 km into the recorded legs you reach Montafon overnight base. You lose 1382 m on the way down to it, steadily. Next is Back to Sargans, mostly downhill.
12. Back to Sargans
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Sargans fuel gate write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Planning note
Back to Sargans closes the day.