Chur likes to say that it is the oldest town in Switzerland, and the evidence is on its side. People have lived on this spot, where the Plessur river meets the Rhine valley, for around five thousand years, and the Romans put a settlement here, and a bishop's seat followed in late antiquity. Today the city, with about thirty-two thousand people, is the capital of Graubünden, the biggest canton in the country, and the gateway to the great passes and valleys of the east.
The old town is a delight, with narrow lanes, stepped alleys, fountains and a cathedral that rises above the rooftops on a terrace. The Rhaetian Railway, with its red trains, runs from here to St. Moritz and Davos through some of the most spectacular country in the Alps. The mountains close in on every side, with the Calanda looming to the west, and in autumn you can smell woodsmoke and wet leaves in the streets.
For a rider, the city is practical. It has fuel stations, bike dealers, supermarkets and every kind of food, and it sits on the main roads: the A13 south to the San Bernardino, the road west toward the Oberalp and Lukmanier passes, and the road east to Davos, Klosters and the Flüela. The Splügen and Albula routes both start nearby. Before a big day in the mountains, this is the place to fill the tank, check your tyres and have a proper breakfast.
The city is warm in summer and the evenings are lively, with outdoor terraces and cafes. The speciality is Bündner Gerstensuppe, a barley soup with ham and vegetables, and the local air-dried beef, Bündnerfleisch, is thin, dark and delicious. Morning traffic on the main roads can be heavy, so start early, and check the passes for closures or roadworks before you set out. Winter ice and snow can affect even the lower roads, so bring warm gear if you travel out of season.