Why this ride
From Bayramaly it runs 210 km to Bayramaly; allow about 4 h 45 of riding. The stops in between: Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala, Bairam Ali Ding, Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas and Garam koshk.
CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
From Bayramaly it runs 210 km to Bayramaly; allow about 4 h 45 of riding. The stops in between: Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala, Bairam Ali Ding, Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas and Garam koshk.
The Merv oasis in southern Turkmenistan was once one of the greatest cities of the medieval world. Watered by the Murghab river, which flows north from Afghanistan and fans out into the Karakum desert, it was a capital of the Seljuk sultans in the eleventh and twelfth centuries and a key stop on the Silk Road. The Mongols destroyed it in 1221, and the ruins of successive cities, spread over a huge area, now form the Ancient Merv archaeological park, inscribed on the UNESCO list in 1999. Among the ruins stand several mausolea of revered figures, small domed buildings that have drawn pilgrims for centuries and still do today.
Read the complete Mausolea of Imam Bakr and Shafi write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Mausolea of Imam Bakr and Shafi is where the day begins. Next is Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala.
Merv was one of the great cities of the world, and today it is a field of mud-brick walls in the Karakum desert. At its height in the twelfth century, under the Seljuk sultan Sanjar, Merv was among the biggest cities on Earth, a Silk Road oasis with libraries, mosques, markets and an elaborate water system fed by canals from the Murghab river. The Mongols destroyed it in 1221, and although a later city grew nearby, the old centre never recovered. The ancient cities of Merv, which spread across a series of walled sites from the time of the Persians to the fifteenth century, were inscribed as a World Heritage site in 1999.
Read the complete Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala comes up about 18 km into the recorded legs. Next is Bairam Ali Ding.
North of Bayramaly, toward the edge of the irrigated land of the Merv oasis, the remains of a ding stand on the flat plain: a fortified building of mud brick, often square or rectangular, with thick walls and corner towers, used as a manor, a refuge or a watch post. The oasis is scattered with structures like this, from medieval times to the more recent past, and many are associated with the defence of farmland and water channels against raiders from the desert. They are part of the wider archaeological landscape of Merv, one of the richest in Central Asia, where every mound and wall has a story, even if not all of them have been told yet.
Read the complete Bairam Ali Ding write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 35 km into the recorded legs you reach Bairam Ali Ding. Next is Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas.
Two ruined buildings stand a short distance apart on the plain of Merv, and both are called Kyz Kala, the maidens' fort. The larger one is a vast square block of mud brick with walls that are corrugated, with a row of vertical flutes that give the surface a strange rhythmic texture, and the smaller one is a similar building on a smaller scale. They are among the best-preserved structures from the early Islamic period at Merv, probably dating from the sixth or seventh century or thereabouts, though historians still discuss their exact date and purpose.
Read the complete Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas, about halfway. Next is Garam koshk.
Out on the edge of the Karakum desert near the oasis city of Merv, odd buildings rise from the plain like giant sandcastles with ribbed sides. These are koshks, fortified mansions built of mud brick, their walls shaped into deep vertical corrugations that gave strength and shade and kept the interiors cool. Garam koshk is one of them, battered by centuries of wind and the occasional rainstorm, but still impressive in its bulk. They belong to the world of medieval Merv, and the most famous, the Kyz Kala, stand within the vast archaeological park that UNESCO inscribed in 1999.
Read the complete Garam koshk write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Garam koshk sits at 80 km, about halfway. Next is back through Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas comes up about 144 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through Bairam Ali Ding.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Bairam Ali Ding write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 176 km into the recorded legs you reach back through Bairam Ali Ding. Next is back through Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
back through Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala, late in the day. Next is Mausolea of Imam Bakr and Shafi.
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Mausolea of Imam Bakr and Shafi write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
The route ends here after 210 km.
Mausolea of Imam Bakr and Shafi → Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala → Bairam Ali Ding is 17 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Bairam Ali Ding → Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas is 29 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas → Garam koshk is 35 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Garam koshk → back through Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas is 45 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Greater and Lesser Nagym Kalas → back through Bairam Ali Ding is 32 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Bairam Ali Ding → back through Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
back through Koshk Imaret near Abdullah Khan Kala → Mausolea of Imam Bakr and Shafi is 18 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.