Two ruined buildings stand a short distance apart on the plain of Merv, and both are called Kyz Kala, the maidens' fort. The larger one is a vast square block of mud brick with walls that are corrugated, with a row of vertical flutes that give the surface a strange rhythmic texture, and the smaller one is a similar building on a smaller scale. They are among the best-preserved structures from the early Islamic period at Merv, probably dating from the sixth or seventh century or thereabouts, though historians still discuss their exact date and purpose.
Local stories explain them in romantic terms, as the homes of princesses who were kept apart from the world, which is probably where the name comes from. Archaeologists suggest they were more likely fortified country residences of a landowning family, with a courtyard, living rooms and storage, arranged to keep out heat and raiders. The fluted walls, which look like decoration, may have been intended to add strength and shade. They are made of rammed earth and mud brick, a technique that is still used in the region, and their survival in the open for so many centuries is a testament to the dry climate.
The fort is part of the ancient Merv park, which includes the old city sites of Erk Kala, Gyaur Kala and Sultan Kala, as well as the mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, the great Seljuk ruler, whose blue-domed tomb is the most impressive building in the area. The trip across the park can be made by car along tracks, and the distances are bigger than they look, so allow time. Early morning and late afternoon give the best light on the walls, which glow orange.
Independent travel in Turkmenistan is tightly controlled, with visas, permits and guides usually needed, so check the current rules long before you plan anything. Fuel and food are available in Mary and Bayramaly, around twenty-eight kilometres away, and there is nothing at the site apart from a small visitor point. Wear sun protection and carry plenty of water, because the desert heat is relentless.