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CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE

Kafirkala Settlement and Town of Ancient Penjikent

Plan this ride

Recorded distance
320 km
Riding-time estimate
5 h 39
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis

Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.

Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.

Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.

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Why this ride

From Samarkand it runs 320 km to Samarkand; allow about 5 h 39 of riding. On the way it passes Jartepa II Temple, The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho, Suleimantepa and Town of Ancient Penjikent. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 2,150 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It crosses from Uzbekistan into Tajikistan - carry ID and check the toll rules. It suits an unhurried touring pace.

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

  1. 1. Kafirkala Settlement

    A few kilometres south of Samarkand, on a mound beside an old irrigation canal, lie the ruins of Kafirkala, a fortified settlement that was an important centre of the Sogdian civilisation before the Arab conquest in the eighth century. The name means fortress of the infidels, given later by Muslim inhabitants. Excavations have revealed a citadel with walls, a palace and remains that tell of the last days of the Sogdian rulers before the city was burned.

    Read the complete Kafirkala Settlement write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Kafirkala Settlement is where the day begins. Next is Jartepa II Temple.

  2. 2. Jartepa II Temple

    The Zarafshan valley is the green artery of central Uzbekistan, carrying meltwater from the mountains of Tajikistan west past Samarkand and Bukhara into the desert. South of Samarkand, the land rises into the foothills of the Zarafshan range, and it is here, near Urgut and close to the Tajik border, that the Jartepa site lies, with remains of a temple from the Sogdian era.

    Read the complete Jartepa II Temple write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Jartepa II Temple comes up about 33 km into the recorded legs. Next is The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho.

  3. 3. The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho

    Samarkand is not just the Registan. On the rolling land just outside the city, there are quieter places where the Timurid age and earlier centuries left shrines that few visitors reach. The ensembles of Abdi Darun and Ishrat-khona are two of them. Abdi Darun is a pilgrimage complex linked to a revered holy man, with mosques, a gateway and a graveyard on a hillside above a stream, and for centuries local people have walked up here to pray and to picnic under the trees. Ishrat-khona, which means the House of Joy, is a ruined mausoleum from the fifteenth century, built for the women of the Timurid court, with a once splendid brick facade of turquoise tiles and carved terracotta.

    Read the complete The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    about 67 km into the recorded legs you reach The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho. Next is Suleimantepa.

  4. 4. Suleimantepa

    Urgut is only a few kilometres from here, and if you ride into town on a market day you will understand quickly why the Silk Road needed places like this. The bazaar in Urgut is one of the biggest in Uzbekistan, sprawling, loud and full of everything from suzani embroidery and old coins to cattle and car parts. Suleimantepa, a low mound just outside, is one of the archaeological sites recognised as part of the Zarafshan valley corridor of the Silk Roads, the chain of settlements, forts and caravan stops along the river that fed Samarkand and Bukhara.

    Read the complete Suleimantepa write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Suleimantepa, about halfway. Next is Town of Ancient Penjikent.

  5. 5. Town of Ancient Penjikent

    On a dusty loess terrace just outside modern Panjakent, a few low mud ridges and pits are all that remain of one of the richest cities on the Silk Road. Fourteen centuries ago this was a Sogdian town of merchants, with two-storey houses, temples and walls covered in paintings of feasts, heroes and gods. The best frescoes went to the Hermitage in St Petersburg and to the Rudaki museum in town, so bring some imagination with you, but standing among the excavated streets with the Zeravshan glittering below, the scale of the place still lands.

    Read the complete Town of Ancient Penjikent write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Town of Ancient Penjikent sits at 177 km, about halfway. Next is back through Suleimantepa.

  6. 6. back through Suleimantepa

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Suleimantepa write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    back through Suleimantepa comes up about 211 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho.

  7. 7. back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    about 253 km into the recorded legs you reach back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho. Next is back through Jartepa II Temple.

  8. 8. back through Jartepa II Temple

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Jartepa II Temple write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    back through Jartepa II Temple, late in the day. Next is Kafirkala Settlement.

  9. 9. Kafirkala Settlement

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Kafirkala Settlement write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    The route ends here after 320 km.

Leg by leg

Kafirkala Settlement to Jartepa II Temple

Kafirkala Settlement → Jartepa II Temple is 33 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Jartepa II Temple to The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho

Jartepa II Temple → The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho to Suleimantepa

The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho → Suleimantepa is 40 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Suleimantepa to Town of Ancient Penjikent

Suleimantepa → Town of Ancient Penjikent is 53 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Town of Ancient Penjikent to back through Suleimantepa

Town of Ancient Penjikent → back through Suleimantepa is 51 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Suleimantepa to back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho

back through Suleimantepa → back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho is 42 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho to back through Jartepa II Temple

back through The Ensembles of Abdi-Darun and Ishrat-kho → back through Jartepa II Temple is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Jartepa II Temple to Kafirkala Settlement

back through Jartepa II Temple → Kafirkala Settlement is 33 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

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