The Zarafshan valley is the green artery of central Uzbekistan, carrying meltwater from the mountains of Tajikistan west past Samarkand and Bukhara into the desert. South of Samarkand, the land rises into the foothills of the Zarafshan range, and it is here, near Urgut and close to the Tajik border, that the Jartepa site lies, with remains of a temple from the Sogdian era.
The Sogdians were the great merchants of the Silk Road, an Iranian people whose language and trading networks stretched from Persia to China in the centuries before the Arab conquest. Their cities and temples dotted the valley, and Samarkand, then called Maracanda, was their most important centre. Temple sites like Jartepa show the religious life of the time, which mixed Zoroastrian elements with local cults. Across the border near Panjakent, the excavated Sogdian town has yielded famous wall paintings. The Jartepa site is an archaeological location, so expect excavated walls and foundations rather than a restored monument.
Urgut, about fourteen kilometres away, is a lively market town known for its huge bazaar, particularly its Sunday market, where you can find textiles, embroidered suzani and all manner of goods. The town sits at the foot of the mountains, with plane trees and a famous old chinar grove, and roads lead up into the hills toward walnut forests and mountain villages.
Riding in Uzbekistan requires preparation. Fuel can be a challenge: many vehicles run on compressed natural gas, petrol stations may only stock low-octane fuel, and supplies can be patchy outside cities, so carry extra and fill up whenever you see good fuel. Check entry rules for bringing your own vehicle. Roads range from good highways to badly broken rural tracks, and police checkpoints are common. The roads into the mountains south of Samarkand are scenic and quiet but often rough, with steep sections.
Samarkand itself, with the Registan, Shah-i-Zinda and Gur-e-Amir, is the obvious base, with good accommodation and food. Plov, the national rice dish, is best at lunchtime, and the bread of Samarkand is famous throughout the country. Spring and autumn are ideal; summer is very hot and winter can be cold.