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CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE

Grebnice and Boljuni

Plan this ride

Recorded distance
319 km
Riding-time estimate
6 h 31
Journey
Recorded itinerary
Distance and timing basis

Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.

Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.

Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.

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Why this ride

A 319 km round trip from Bileća - roughly 6 h 31 in the saddle. The stops in between: Potkuk in Bitunja, Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards, Bijača and Boljuni. The stored terrain estimate reaches about 1,100 m; a measured road-elevation profile is not available. It crosses from Montenegro into Bosnia & Herzegovina - carry ID and check the toll rules. A steady touring day rather than a sprint.

Waypoint introductions and full write-ups

  1. 1. Grebnice

    Grebnice, a name that simply means something like grave-stones, is a field of stećci near Bileća in eastern Herzegovina. These are the massive carved tombstones of medieval Bosnia and its neighbours, cut from local limestone between roughly the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, shaped like chests, slabs or little houses with gabled roofs, and sometimes covered with spirals, rosettes, swords, shields and dancing figures. UNESCO listed a selection of the most important sites together in 2016, and the necropolis here is one of the eastern Herzegovinian groups. Standing among them on a still afternoon, with the grass grown up around the stones, is a strangely moving experience.

    Read the complete Grebnice write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Grebnice is where the day begins. Next is Potkuk in Bitunja.

  2. 2. Potkuk in Bitunja

    Grey limestone, thin grass, a scatter of oaks and juniper, and among them heavy blocks of carved stone lying where they were set some six or seven hundred years ago. Potkuk, near the hamlet of Bitunja in eastern Herzegovina, is one of the necropolises of stećci, the medieval tombstones that were added to the World Heritage list in 2016 together with sites across Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro and Serbia.

    Read the complete Potkuk in Bitunja write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Potkuk in Bitunja comes up about 42 km into the recorded legs. Next is Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards.

  3. 3. Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards

    Radimlja, just outside Stolac in Herzegovina, is the finest of the stećak graveyards, and it lies right beside the main road, which makes it one of the easiest pieces of medieval Europe to stop for. Stećci are massive limestone tombstones, shaped like chests, slabs or little gabled houses, carved between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries across the medieval kingdom of Bosnia and neighbouring lands. Many are decorated with reliefs: spirals, vines, crescents, stars, hunting scenes, dancers holding hands, and knights with swords and shields, and one figure at Radimlja raises an oversized right hand in what may be a greeting or a blessing. In 2016 UNESCO listed a group of these graveyards across four countries together.

    Read the complete Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    about 68 km into the recorded legs you reach Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards. Next is Bijača.

  4. 4. Bijača

    In western Herzegovina, near the town of Ljubuški and close to the Croatian border, the land is a mix of karst hills, fertile valleys and vineyards, baked by the sun and scented with sage and fig. Near the village of Bijača, the necropolis of stećci, the medieval tombstones that are unique to this region, is one of the sites included in the UNESCO listing of stećci, spread across Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro and Serbia. The tombstones, carved with crosses, spirals, figures and inscriptions, stand among the grass and stones, a silent reminder of the people who lived here centuries ago.

    Read the complete Bijača write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Bijača, about halfway. Next is Boljuni.

  5. 5. Boljuni

    In the stony hills of eastern Herzegovina, a few kilometres from Stolac, a field of grey limestone blocks lies scattered among oak scrub and dry grass. These are stećci, medieval tombstones carved between roughly the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, and Boljuni has a few hundred of them, many decorated with reliefs: rosettes, crescents, spirals, hunters with spears, dancing figures holding hands, a man raising an oversized hand as if in greeting. Nobody fully agrees on who made them or what all the symbols mean, which makes standing among them oddly moving. Together with other cemeteries across Bosnia and Herzegovina and its neighbours, Boljuni is part of the UNESCO site of Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards, inscribed in 2016.

    Read the complete Boljuni write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    Boljuni sits at 142 km, about halfway. Next is back through Bijača.

  6. 6. back through Bijača

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Bijača write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    back through Bijača comes up about 214 km into the recorded legs. Next is back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards.

  7. 7. back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    about 252 km into the recorded legs you reach back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards. Next is back through Potkuk in Bitunja.

  8. 8. back through Potkuk in Bitunja

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Potkuk in Bitunja write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    back through Potkuk in Bitunja, late in the day. Next is Grebnice.

  9. 9. Grebnice

    Return visit. Read the place description above.

    Read the complete Grebnice write-up.

    Recorded stop-planning note

    May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.

    Planning note

    The route ends here after 319 km.

Leg by leg

Grebnice to Potkuk in Bitunja

Grebnice → Potkuk in Bitunja is 42 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Potkuk in Bitunja to Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards

Potkuk in Bitunja → Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards is 26 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards to Bijača

Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards → Bijača is 39 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Bijača to Boljuni

Bijača → Boljuni is 53 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

Boljuni to back through Bijača

Boljuni → back through Bijača is 54 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Bijača to back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards

back through Bijača → back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards is 38 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards to back through Potkuk in Bitunja

back through Stećci Medieval Tombstone Graveyards → back through Potkuk in Bitunja is 25 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

back through Potkuk in Bitunja to Grebnice

back through Potkuk in Bitunja → Grebnice is 42 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.

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