In western Herzegovina, near the town of Ljubuški and close to the Croatian border, the land is a mix of karst hills, fertile valleys and vineyards, baked by the sun and scented with sage and fig. Near the village of Bijača, the necropolis of stećci, the medieval tombstones that are unique to this region, is one of the sites included in the UNESCO listing of stećci, spread across Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro and Serbia. The tombstones, carved with crosses, spirals, figures and inscriptions, stand among the grass and stones, a silent reminder of the people who lived here centuries ago.
Herzegovina is a land of contrasts, from the green valley of the Neretva river, which flows past Mostar to the sea, to the stark, rocky hills around it. Nearby, the Kravica waterfalls, a series of cascades on the Trebižat river, are a popular spot for swimming and picnics in summer, and the wetlands of Hutovo Blato, south of Čapljina, are a haven for birds. The pilgrimage town of Međugorje, a short ride away, attracts millions of visitors who come to the site of reported apparitions of the Virgin Mary since 1981. The region is known for its wines, especially the white Žilavka and red Blatina.
Riding in Herzegovina is a pleasure, with roads winding through hills, valleys and gorges, and little traffic outside the towns. The main road between Mostar and the coast follows the Neretva, with views of the river and the mountains, and smaller roads lead to villages, monasteries and viewpoints. Surfaces are generally good on main routes but can be rough on smaller roads. Summers are hot, often over thirty-five degrees, so ride early or late and carry water. The border with Croatia is close, and crossings can be busy in summer.
Čapljina and Ljubuški have fuel, shops and restaurants. Bosnian and Herzegovinian cuisine is hearty: try ćevapi, grilled minced meat with flatbread and onions, and Herzegovinian prosciutto with local cheese. Wash it down with a glass of Žilavka or Blatina, and finish with a strong Bosnian coffee. Stay on roads and established paths, as landmines from the war of the 1990s remain in some areas.