Why this ride
Out of Gryllefjord, one way: 101 km, roughly 1 h 49 in the saddle. It goes by way of Bergsbotn, Tungeneset and Husoy. It suits an unhurried touring pace.
CURVESCOUT / MOTORCYCLE RIDE
Ordered leg totals agree within rounding. Stop distances are approximate sums of rounded legs. Stops, delays, approach and any separate return travel add time. Basis: producer-declared routed record.
Reading history stays on this device. My road watch requires a separate selection; opening it does not subscribe this ride.
Distance and riding time are measured on the routed road. Check local closures and conditions before you ride.
Out of Gryllefjord, one way: 101 km, roughly 1 h 49 in the saddle. It goes by way of Bergsbotn, Tungeneset and Husoy. It suits an unhurried touring pace.
The ride follows Norwegian Scenic Route Senja for 34 km.
For about 8 km this is Norwegian Scenic Route Senja, a road with a name of its own and a reason for it. Expect company on a summer weekend. Early is better than fast.
Gryllefjord is a fishing village at the north-western end of Senja, Norway's second largest island, and it is about as far as you can go before the road gives out and the Atlantic takes over. It has fewer than five hundred inhabitants, a harbour, a small ferry quay and a handful of buildings, and the ferry runs from here across to Andenes on Andøya, a crossing of a couple of hours that is worth taking in summer. The mountains behind the village are jagged and steep, and the sea is a deep, cold blue. Finnsnes, on the mainland side of the island, is the nearest town of any size, nearly forty kilometres away.
Read the complete Gryllefjord write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Gryllefjord is where the day begins. Next is Bergsbotn.
Bergsbotn lies at the head of Bergsfjorden, on the north-west coast of Senja, Norway's second-largest island, and it is the place where the island's reputation as Norway in miniature starts to make sense. Steep peaks drop straight into the sea, the fjord runs cold and dark between them, and the lights of a few small houses stand at its edge. A viewing platform reaches out over the water, built as part of the scenic route programme, and from it you can look across the fjord to a wall of jagged mountains whose profile reminds some people of a saw and others of the horns of an ox. Local names say the same thing in Norwegian.
Read the complete Bergsbotn write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Bergsbotn comes up about 34 km into the recorded legs. Next is Tungeneset.
Tungeneset is a viewing platform on the west side of Senja, set on a rocky point above the sea, and it offers what is perhaps the most photographed outlook on the island. A path of steel and timber boardwalks leads out over the rock to a viewing point, designed to be unobtrusive but strong enough to stand the weather. In front of you, the mountains rise in sharp, bare peaks straight from the water, and depending on your angle and the cloud, you can pick out the pointed silhouettes that appear in every Senja guidebook. Below, the sea works at the foot of the rock, and in the right light it goes from slate to silver to green.
Read the complete Tungeneset write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
about 42 km into the recorded legs you reach Tungeneset. Next is Husoy.
Husøy is a fishing village on a small island off the coast of Senja, tied to the larger island by road, and the lanes of its wooden houses are painted in the traditional reds, yellows and whites of the north. It is a working harbour first of all: boats at the quay, nets and crates on the wharf, and the air heavy with the sharp smell of salt, diesel and fish. Racks of drying cod stand in places, the old method of preserving the catch that built the economy of the Norwegian north. Stockfish, as it is called, was shipped to southern Europe for centuries, and the trade shaped places like this.
Read the complete Husoy write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Husoy, late in the day. Next is Botnhamn.
Botnhamn is a tiny fishing settlement on the north side of Senja, facing the open sea, and it is an end of the road in the best sense. The little harbour is sheltered by rocky headlands, with a handful of houses and boat sheds, and behind it rise steep, jagged mountains that drop straight into the ocean. Finnsnes, over thirty kilometres away, is the closest town of any size, so supplies need to be sorted earlier. The area has been settled for thousands of years, with traces of Sami and Norse inhabitants, and fishing has been the main livelihood for most of that time.
Read the complete Botnhamn write-up.
May refer to an earlier itinerary; verify against your selected route before riding.
Finish at Botnhamn. That is the ride.
Gryllefjord → Bergsbotn is 34 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Bergsbotn → Tungeneset is 8 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Tungeneset → Husoy is 43 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.
Husøy → Botnhamn is 15 km of rhythm rather than effort. Let it flow and let the view breathe.