Gryllefjord is a fishing village at the north-western end of Senja, Norway's second largest island, and it is about as far as you can go before the road gives out and the Atlantic takes over. It has fewer than five hundred inhabitants, a harbour, a small ferry quay and a handful of buildings, and the ferry runs from here across to Andenes on Andøya, a crossing of a couple of hours that is worth taking in summer. The mountains behind the village are jagged and steep, and the sea is a deep, cold blue. Finnsnes, on the mainland side of the island, is the nearest town of any size, nearly forty kilometres away.
This is Arctic Norway, well above the Arctic Circle, and the seasons are extreme. From late May to late July the sun does not set, and the light at midnight is soft and gold, which is the finest time to ride. In winter, the sun disappears for weeks, and the northern lights are visible on clear nights. The weather is changeable, often windy, and the temperature even in summer can be cool, so pack warm layers and waterproofs.
The scenic route on Senja runs along the outer coast, passing through villages like Mefjordvær and Husøy, with views of peaks that rise sharply from the water. The road is mostly narrow and well maintained, with some tight bends and short tunnels, and traffic is light. Sheep and reindeer wander near the road, and sea eagles circle above the fjords, so keep your eyes open. Along the route are viewing platforms and small art installations that are part of the National Tourist Routes programme.
Fuel is a point to plan for. Pumps exist at Finnsnes and some villages, but not everywhere, and opening hours can be limited, particularly on Sundays. Fill the tank whenever you can, and carry some food. In the harbour you can buy fresh fish, and the local specialty is stockfish, cod dried on racks in the cold air. Gryllefjord is quiet, the sort of place where the sound of the gulls is the main event, and the long evening light does the rest.