1. Landsberg am Lech
Landsberg am Lech sits on a bend of the river with a medieval gate, a tilted market square and a history that began with salt. In the twelfth century Henry the Lion, the Duke of Bavaria, built a toll station here on the Lech to tax the salt traders who were bringing their loads from Reichenhall to Swabia, and the town grew up around it. The Bayertor, a tall, ornate gate of the fifteenth century, still stands at the end of the old town, and its roof is covered in glazed tiles that sparkle after rain. The Lech itself tumbles over a weir in the middle of town, a lively sound that follows you through the streets.
Read the complete Landsberg am Lech write-up.
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Planning note
Landsberg am Lech is where the day begins. Next is Forggensee view.
2. Forggensee view
From the shore above the Forggensee you can see Neuschwanstein, white and improbable on its rock, and behind it the mountains of the Ammergau Alps fold into Tyrol. Few views in Germany are so famous, and few so likely to be crowded, so the advice is to come early. The castle was built by King Ludwig II from 1869, was unfinished when he died in 1886, and opened to the public within weeks. Hohenschwangau, the yellow castle below it, was where he grew up. Tickets for the interiors are sold for timed entry and fill up in summer, so this is a place to admire from the road if you did not plan ahead.
Read the complete Forggensee view write-up.
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Planning note
Forggensee view comes up 54 km in. Next is Neuschwanstein view area.
3. Neuschwanstein view area
Everyone knows the picture: white towers on a limestone crag, forest below, flat land stretching away to the north. What the postcards do not tell you is how many people are in the picture's foreground. The village of Schwangau and the car parks around Hohenschwangau fill with coaches from about ten in the morning, so if you want to see the castle with some room to think, arrive early or come late and treat the visit as a shoulder-season pleasure.
Read the complete Neuschwanstein view area write-up.
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Planning note
109 km in you reach Neuschwanstein view area. Next is Peißenberg hills.
4. Peißenberg hills
Peißenberg is a town on a hill, and the hill is the thing. The Hoher Peißenberg rises to just under a thousand metres, isolated from the Alps behind it, so that it stands like a lookout over the whole of the Pfaffenwinkel, the Priest's Corner, the pilgrim country between the Lech and the Loisach. From its top you see the lakes, the Ammergau mountains and the line of the Zugspitze in the distance. The road up is steep and short, with a good surface, and parking near the summit is limited.
Read the complete Peißenberg hills write-up.
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Planning note
Peißenberg hills, early in the day. Next is Back to Landsberg am Lech.
5. Back to Landsberg am Lech
Return visit. Read the place description above.
Read the complete Landsberg am Lech write-up.
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Planning note
Finish at Back to Landsberg am Lech. That is the ride. Next is Grossglockner Gateway Overnight.
6. Fuel stop near Starnberg
On the evening of 13 June 1886, King Ludwig II of Bavaria, the builder of Neuschwanstein, drowned in the shallow waters of the Starnberger See, together with his psychiatrist, a day after being deposed and declared insane. The circumstances have never been fully explained, and theories of murder or suicide still circulate. A cross in the water off Berg, on the eastern shore, marks the spot, and a votive chapel stands on the hill above. Across the lake, at Possenhofen, his cousin Elisabeth, the future Empress Sisi of Austria, spent her childhood summers.
Read the complete Fuel stop near Starnberg write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Grossglockner Gateway Overnight is the fuel stop for this leg. Next is High point near Herrsching am Ammersee.
7. High point near Herrsching am Ammersee
On a hill above the Ammersee, the onion-domed church of Andechs Monastery has drawn pilgrims for centuries, but many modern visitors come for something else: the beer. The Benedictine monks of Andechs brew some of the most celebrated beers in Bavaria, and the beer garden next to the monastery, with its view over the countryside, is famous. The climb from Herrsching through the Kiental, a narrow wooded valley, is a pleasant walk for those who want to earn their beer; riders, of course, take the road and leave the beer for later.
Read the complete High point near Herrsching am Ammersee write-up.
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Planning note
You top out here; the road stops climbing. Next is Grossglockner Gateway Overnight checkpoint 8.
8. Near Germering
West of Munich, the city fades into a belt of comfortable suburbs, Germering, Planegg, Gräfelfing, set among fields and patches of forest on the flat gravel plain that stretches towards the Alps. The ride ends among them, near the forest of the Kreuzlinger Forst, and it is a convenient finish for rides that have gone south to the Grossglockner and the Allgäu.
Read the complete Near Germering write-up.
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Planning note
Finish at Grossglockner Gateway Overnight checkpoint 8. That is the ride. Next is Scenic stretch near Petershausen.
9. Scenic stretch near Petershausen
North of Munich, the land rolls gently through the valleys of the Glonn and the Ilm, a quiet country of fields, forests and villages known as the Dachauer Hinterland. Petershausen is one of its towns, with a railway station linking it to the city, and a church and old farmhouses. It is a practical place, and the surrounding countryside is pleasant, with meadows, woods and onion-domed churches.
Read the complete Scenic stretch near Petershausen write-up.
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Planning note
Scenic stretch near Petershausen sits at 435 km, about halfway. Next is Photo stop near Au in der Hallertau.
10. Photo stop near Au in der Hallertau
Tall green walls of hops line the roads around Au in der Hallertau in late summer. The Hallertau is the largest continuous hop-growing region in the world, and its vines climb wires strung between poles about seven metres high, giving the landscape a strange, almost theatrical look. Au, a small market town with a castle and a church, is one of its centres, and the smell of hops at harvest time, from late August into September, is unforgettable.
Read the complete Photo stop near Au in der Hallertau write-up.
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Planning note
Photo stop near Au in der Hallertau comes up 490 km in. Next is Munich / Bavarian Alps return.
11. Halfing, on the way back
After a weekend on the Grossglockner, with its glaciers, hairpins and thin, cold air, there is something deeply satisfying about stopping in the soft green hills of the Chiemgau and lowering yourself into a lake. The point lies near Halfing, a village between Rosenheim and the Chiemsee, and within a few kilometres there are several lakes that make ideal swimming stops on the way back to Munich.
Read the complete Halfing, on the way back write-up.
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Planning note
544 km in you reach Munich / Bavarian Alps return. Next is Food stop near Bad Feilnbach.
12. Food stop near Bad Feilnbach
Bad Feilnbach is a spa town at the foot of the Wendelstein, the striking rocky peak that rises above the Inn valley south of Rosenheim. Its speciality is moor baths, using peat from the surrounding bogs, and visitors have come for its healing treatments for over a century. The town is quiet and green, with meadows, orchards and farmhouses, and the mountain looms over everything.
Read the complete Food stop near Bad Feilnbach write-up.
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Planning note
Somewhere to get off the bike, 599 km in. Next is Back to Grossglockner.
13. Back to Grossglockner
Starnberg sits at the northern end of the Starnberger See, the big, elongated lake south of Munich, and the dot lands in the lakeside commuter belt between the town and Pöcking. It is wealthy country. The shoreline is lined with villas and old summer houses, the roads are quiet, and the Alps appear on clear days as a long white wall above the water, with the Zugspitze and the Karwendel easy to pick out.
Read the complete Grossglockner write-up.
Recorded stop-planning note
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Planning note
Back to Grossglockner closes the day.