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Fuel stop near Starnberg

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On the evening of 13 June 1886, King Ludwig II of Bavaria, the builder of Neuschwanstein, drowned in the shallow waters of the Starnberger See, together with his psychiatrist, a day after being deposed and declared insane. The circumstances have never been fully explained, and theories of murder or suicide still circulate. A cross in the water off Berg, on the eastern shore, marks the spot, and a votive chapel stands on the hill above. Across the lake, at Possenhofen, his cousin Elisabeth, the future Empress Sisi of Austria, spent her childhood summers.

The Starnberger See is a large, deep lake south of Munich, surrounded by villas, parks and villages, with the Alps rising beyond the southern shore. Starnberg itself is a wealthy town at the northern end, with a lakeside promenade, boats and cafés. The lake has been a playground for Munich's elite since the days of the kings, and its shores are lined with mansions and gardens.

The riding around the lake is pleasant but often busy. The roads follow the shores, with curves and views over the water, but traffic can be heavy, especially on summer weekends, and speed limits are strictly enforced. The roads away from the lake, into the hills and villages, are quieter and more rewarding, with views of the Alps. Watch for cyclists, who are numerous.

Starnberg has plenty of fuel stations, shops, cafés and restaurants, making it a convenient stop. A coffee on the promenade, watching the boats, is a pleasant break. The Grossglockner and the high Alps lie far to the south, over the mountains into Austria.

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