North of Pereira, where Risaralda meets Caldas, the coffee country climbs into higher, wilder ground above the deep canyon of the Cauca river. Quinchía, two kilometres from this point, is a hill town in Zone B of the Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia, the World Heritage Site inscribed in 2011. Here the coffee farms share the slopes with sugar cane for panela, plantain and forest, and the towns feel less visited than the classic stops further south.
The area has a long history before coffee. Indigenous communities, including the Emberá Chamí, have lived in these mountains for centuries, and gold mining, both ancient and modern, has shaped the landscape and the economy. Quinchía itself sits on a ridge with views over the surrounding mountains, and its central square is a lively meeting place.
Riosucio, ten kilometres away in Caldas, is famous for its Carnival of the Devil, held every two years in January, a riotous celebration with music, poetry, masks and a giant devil figure that mixes Indigenous, African and Spanish traditions. Anserma, another nearby town, has a fine colonial church and a lively market.
Riding here is serious mountain riding. The roads are narrow, steep and winding, often with poor surfaces, potholes and landslides, especially in the rainy seasons. Traffic includes buses, trucks, motorcycles and jeeps loaded with coffee. The views are spectacular, with the Cauca canyon below and the peaks of the Western Cordillera on the horizon. Fog can roll in quickly, and rain can turn roads into mud.
Fuel is available in Quinchía, Anserma and Riosucio. The region's food is simple and filling: sancocho, a hearty soup with chicken or beef, plantains and yucca, and arepas. Coffee is grown and roasted locally, and a cup in a small café on the square, watching the town go by, is the best way to experience the rhythm of life in the mountains. Security has improved greatly in recent years, but it is still wise to ask locally about road conditions and safety before setting out on remote routes.