Colombian coffee does not grow on big estates. It grows on steep green slopes in small farms, where families pick the red cherries by hand and dry them on patios by the house, and the cultural landscape that has grown from this way of life, in the central Andes, was listed by UNESCO in 2011. The region is known as the Eje Cafetero, the coffee axis, and the Zone A on our list is one of the main areas of the property, a mix of hills, valleys and villages of small farms and old towns.
Supía and Riosucio, the nearest towns, are in the department of Caldas, and they have a particular character. Riosucio is famous for its carnival, held every two years in January, in which people dress as devils and dance through the streets in a mix of indigenous, African and Catholic traditions. The town is split between two old communities, and the people of the two sides have long had a friendly rivalry that is part of the festival. The buildings of the region, with their wooden balconies, bamboo walls plastered with mud, painted in strong colours, are typical of the area's architecture.
For a rider, the coffee region is a pleasure. Roads wind through green hills, past coffee bushes, banana plants and bamboo groves, with views over the valleys and mountains. They are often narrow and steep, with tight bends, sudden crests and old Willys jeeps loaded with sacks. Landslides after heavy rain are common, so check conditions. The rains come from March to May and from October to November, and the driest months, December to February and July to August, are the best for riding. Early starts give the best light.
Supía is about four kilometres away and has fuel, shops and small restaurants, and Riosucio, up in the hills, has more. A cup of coffee, strong and sweet, is offered everywhere, and many farms welcome visitors for a tour, showing the process from picking to roasting. Try a bandeja paisa, the hearty regional dish of beans, rice, pork, egg and plantain, and drink plenty of water, because the altitude, at around 1,800 metres in places, can sap your energy.